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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Squaw
Along the rounded west edge via the wall (1st ring) to the 2nd ring (aid climbing) and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Záchytka
Crack (ring) to the edge (2nd ring) and wall n. t. (not translated / no further text). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kalírna
Start E via the chimney to the 1st ring, along the edge to the 2nd ring and via slab… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Novicka
From the E, via a slanting ramp and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Novicka
Valley wall (1st ring), then crack to the fore-rock and wall (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Novicka
From the S, via the chimney to the overgrown fore-summit, easy onwards to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Genius
From the NE by a wide crack to the balcony, by a small crack near the edge and by a gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Chlapice
From the upland side, over the overhang to the ledge and right under the overhang. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Chlapice
From the SW, via the chimney, step over from the ledge and via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Chlapice
From the north, via the chimney left along a disappearing ledge under the overhang. From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Chlapice
Passage through the chimney to the west side. Via the chimney and slabby wall to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4
Doupňák
UIAA Class 4. From the highest plateau fore-peak by abseiling into the saddle. Along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Matador
UIAA Class 5+. From the passable valley corridor by chimney to the pillar. By crack to… Rock Climbing
4
Výroční
UIAA Class 4. From the plateau side by crack to the pillar. Rock Climbing
5
Kule
UIAA Class 5. From the plateau fore-peak by traverse/rappel, by crack and down to the… Rock Climbing
3
Havraní věže
UIAA Class 3. From the plateau side by overgrown steps to the balcony and along the edge… Rock Climbing
3
Havraní věže
UIAA Class 3. From the SW by chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Nepřihlášená
UIAA Class 4. Description missing. Rock Climbing
3
Nepřihlášená
UIAA Class 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
5+
Výroční
UIAA Class 5+. In the valley wall by crack into a small cave. By aid over the overhang… Rock Climbing
3
Havraní věže
UIAA Class 3. From the NE by a prominent corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Věž ve Ztracené rokli
UIAA Class 3. From the plateau saddle by chimney, by aid and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kuliferda
UIAA Class 3. From the plateau side by a dihedral/groove and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Akela
From the South from the left by the edge into a groove and up the wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
5+
Brambora
UIAA Class 5+. From the West by chimney to the block. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Máček
UIAA Class 5. From the plateau side along the oblique groove down to the balcony and by… Rock Climbing
5+
Pinďa
UIAA Class 5+. By NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Hyde
From the plateau side to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Vidamýžď
UIAA Class 4. Through the left part of the SW wall right to the crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing
3
Záčatečník
UIAA Class 3. Right from the valley wall by chimney to the block. By step-across and up… Rock Climbing

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