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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Pokladna
Rock Climbing
5
Černý gadžo
From the ledge below the summit block of Převozník, via an overhang and a gully to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Černý gadžo
From the upper side via the wall (artificial steps) to the fore-summit on the SE side.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Převozník
From the NW (from Metuje) by aid climbing, a small column under an overhang and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Černý gadžo
From the SE via a chimney to the pillar. Left to another pillar and via the wall to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Černý gadžo
From the fore-summit on the eastern side via an overhang and aid climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Převozník
From the NE via a crack over an overhang to a ledge, traverse right along it and via a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Černý gadžo
From the SW via the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Převozník
From the upper (SE) side via the wall to the fore-summit. By aid climbing and via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Leontýnka
From the upper side over a short belly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
5
Lesní zátiší
Via the sloping SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Leontýnka
From the S edge via a sloping slab to the right under the ring, via the wall through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Lesní zátiší
Via the upper (SE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Dunhill
From the SE via a chimney to the fore-summit and to the left along the western edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Stožárová
In the left part of the valley (NW) wall by significant aid climbing to a suspended crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
3
Stožárová
Via the NE chimney to the fore-summit and from the overhang by aid climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Stožárová
From the ledge in the SE wall (1st ring) to the platform, via a small pinnacle and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Stožárová
On the eastern side of the tower via the right crack (ring) to a ramp. Traverse to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Stožárová
In the middle of the valley (NW) wall, building (holds) to the crack, then (1st ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Stožárová
The ascent starts in the right part of the NW wall at the crack under the overhang.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Stožárová
The ascent starts below the right part of the NW wall from Metuje (rent a table at Lesní… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Stožárová
From the tourist path from the SW via a small pillar/arête to the 1st ring and a shallow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Stožárová
Up the SE wall (artificial steps/holds) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
6
Lesní strašidlo
Through the chimney from the W to the pre-summit, then up the south wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Stožárová
From the entrance gate through the passage (small fence) into the inner space, via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kristýna
Via the right SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Škrovádský pytlák
By bridging between "Škrovádský pytlák" and "Porybný", building (holds) and left up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Kristýna
In the middle of the SW wall, left to the 1st ring. From there straight or left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kristýna
In the left part of the SW wall, via a crack over the overhang to the pillar, and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kristýna
Via the left SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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