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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Bača
Via the NE chimney to the pillars, left into the chimney of route no. 2 and up that way n… Rock Climbing
2
Beran
Through the NE chimney to the saddle and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Chamtivec
Along the S edge n.v. Rock Climbing
4-
Svatební věžička
From the NW via a chimney between the edge and the tower into a traverse. Along the edge … Rock Climbing
5
Bača
Via the SW crack to the plateau and up the wall (ring) n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Bača
Rock Climbing
3
Mraveneček
Rock Climbing
6
Hranol v zemi
From the NE via a winding wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
2
Polická věžička
From Hubáček peak via an overhang and wall n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Polická věžička
From the N via a traverse and along the edge n.v. Rock Climbing
4
Čvanč
Through the center of the NW face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Dlouhý hřbet
From the gorge via a crack to the balcony and along the edge n.t. Rock Climbing
2
Oranž
Rock Climbing
5
Dlouhý hřbet
From the gorge via a corner crack n.t. Rock Climbing
2
Čtyři prsty
From W via a corner and along the NW edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Oranž
The start is on the boulder below the center of the SE wall. Via a curved crack to the… Rock Climbing
3
Oranž
The start is below the right part of the SE wall. Up the wall and via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
2
Oranž
To the left of route No. 1 to the blocks and via route No. 2 to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Oranž
From the blocks of route No. 2 to the right via a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Oranž
In the left part of the NE wall via an angled/broken crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kňour
In the left part of the upper wall via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vobejda
From the block on the upper side via climbing/building up to a ledge. Along the ledge to… Rock Climbing
7
Kňour
Via a diagonal crack in the SE wall to a ledge. Via a somewhat wider crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kňour
In the right part of the NE wall via a crack to the end, traverse right into a crack and… Rock Climbing
6-
Kňour
From the block near the western edge up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+
Krvavý Čepelka
Via the right upper crack, higher up via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Krvavý Čepelka
In the valley wall via a double crack under an overhang (on the left edge is the 1st ring… Rock Climbing
6+
Krvavý Čepelka
The start is below the right upper crack. Through a traverse into the valley wall above… Rock Climbing
5+
Krvavý Čepelka
From NW from the boulder through a notch to the left behind the edge and via the corner… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Horal
From the edge via a jump/step over to the summit. Rock Climbing

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