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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Horal
Along the upper edge via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-
Krvavý Čepelka
Via the left upper crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Ataman
From the highest point of the terrain on the valley side (from NE) via a diagonal crack… Rock Climbing
2
Čertovy schody
From the block on the upper side by overhang/drop and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Stěna trampů
In the right part of the wall via a fissure (ring) and crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna trampů
To the left of the Potlach route via an arched crack to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Jitka
SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Jitka
Along the West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Čertovy schody
From the SE via a crack in the valley wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Gejša
From the upper side via a crack to the balcony and up the wall (hourglass) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Stěna trampů
In the middle of the wall via a fissure and crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Tři čerti
From the North via the chimney to the pre-summit and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Čertovo kopýtko
From the West via the wall and crack to the pre-summit. Route No. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Čertovo kopýtko
From the North via the wall to the pre-summit and up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Stěna trampů
In the left part of the wall via a crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ďábelská koule
From the SE via the chimney between Devil's Ball and the massif to the fore-rock, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Tři čerti
SW crack to the pre-summit and route No. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Tři čerti
Rock Climbing
6
Ďábelská koule
Up the wall along the southern edge to a ledge and through a gully (1st ring) below the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Ďábelská koule
In the left part of the NE face via a crack and a falcon's ledge over an outcrop to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Bertík
From the upper side through the chimney to the needle, by overhang/drop and up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Bertík
From the East (from a massive fore-rock) by stepping over to the right edge and… Rock Climbing
7
Mefistofeles
At the end of the northern gorge, via a curved corner, higher up via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Mefistofeles
At the western edge of the left valley pillar by climbing, crack, and wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Mefistofeles
Via the ledge in the valley face to the left to the 1st ring, then up the face (4 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Mefistofeles
From the northern gorge, via a narrow crack into the chimney and up it to the pillars.… Rock Climbing
3
Vidle
Through the upper chimney between the tower and the block, higher up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Mefistofeles
In the right part of the SW face, via a crack (second crack to the right of the Hantýrka… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Mefistofeles
Up the face along the left valley edge (3 rings) cheerfully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mefistofeles
Via the left crack in the SW face to the pillar and by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing

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