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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Mefistofeles
Via the left corner widening crack in the NE face to the pillars. Traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Mefistofeles
Via a slanting crack in the northern gorge (ring) to the pillars, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Tralda
Through the right part of the valley face to the pillar. By the face, a crack and along… Rock Climbing
5
Tralda
Via a crack in the SW face to the valley's lower rock formation. Traverse left into the… Rock Climbing
3
Tralda
From NE, via the left crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Tralda
From SW, via the right crack over the overhang and by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Tralda
From SW, via the chimney to the gap between towers and then by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Tralda
From NE, via a crack over the overhang to the pre-summit. Route no. 1 to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Tralda
In the SW corner, via the small pillar/arete and a crack to the clock. To the right, by… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tralda
From the edges, by jumps/straddles over the pillars to the tower's ledge and by the face… Rock Climbing
3
Uzlík
From the South, traverse along the edges to the tower. Over the overhang and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Trepifaixl
In the NE wall, via a crack into the recess and up the wall to the right to the ring. By… Rock Climbing
5
Trepifaixl
In the NE wall, via a crack and higher up the chimney to the pillar. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4
Uzlík
From the South, up the chimney to the edge and via route no. l to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Trepifaixl
To the block of route no. l by traversing and skipping along the edges. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Trepifaixl
Start on the left in the valley wall. Up the dihedral below the ring. Difficult to the… Rock Climbing
7
Trepifaixl
From the valley fore-rock, via a crack to the balcony. Up the wall (ring) to the slanted… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Maňásek
From NE, via a crack in the corner and a squeeze to the 1st ring, then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Maňásek
Up the wall along the valley edge (3 rings) below the head, long traverse left to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vakoveverka
Along the wall along the plateau (eastern) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Maňásek
Along the plateau (eastern) edge below the head, traverse four meters right to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Anděl
From the plateau side, through a passage and chimney onto a block (rocking stone) above… Rock Climbing
5
Anděl
From the plateau side, up the chimney to the block, step over (ring) and to the right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Anděl
From the South, traverse over blocks, then over the overhang to the ring of route no. l… Rock Climbing
6-
Scholastik
From SW, from the drag block, step over into the wall to the 1st ring. Along the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Scholastik
Along the wall along the eastern edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Čertův hrádek
Via the middle crack on the NE face to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Čertův hrádek
From the block on the lower side up the face to the right onto the eastern edge and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Čertův hrádek
Via the right crack on the NE face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Čertův hrádek
To the right of the eastern edge via a crack to the 1st ring, a system of cracks (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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