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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Petrolejka
Along the upper (northern) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Babulík
Through the NE corner crack to the block, over the overflow and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Brána do pekel
The ascent starts from the SE side on the balcony under the left pillar. Up the wide… Rock Climbing
9
Babulík
Through the center of the SW wall, through the crack (circle) and higher up the crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Brána do pekel
The ascent is in the SE corner. Up the left corner crack (ring) to the ring of the Díra… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Brána do pekel
To the right of the start of the Černá knížka (Black Book) route, up a narrow crack to a… Rock Climbing
8
Brána do pekel
The ascent is in the SE corner. Up the right corner crack (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Brána do pekel
Up the SW corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
10
El diablo rojo
Up the chimney between Brána do pekel (Gate to Hell) and El Diablo rojo to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Brána do pekel
To the left of the corner in the SE face, up the crack into the cave. Directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nagano
To the right of the Špirlice route, up the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Nagano
In the right corner of the SE face, up the narrow crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nagano
In the middle of the NE face (near the block), up the crack and then left up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Nagano
On the left edge of the valley (SE) face, up the overhanging corner crack (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nagano
In the right part of the NE face, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Nagano
In the left part of the NE face, above the path, up the prominent chimney under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vánoční hvězda
Up the crack to the right of the Zvonkohra (Carillon) route to its 2nd ring. Rock Climbing
4
Světýlko
From the NE, up the wall to the edge and along it to the highest point. Rock Climbing
3
Vánoční hvězda
From the ledge on the SW face, up the chimney from Světýlka (Little Light) to the sub… Rock Climbing
6-
Vánoční hvězda
From the highest point of the slope in the gorge on the NE side of the tower, up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vánoční hvězda
From the west, use opposition against the massif, traverse right into the crack, follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Vánoční hvězda
From the NW by traversing the massifs and via the Carnivorous Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vánoční hvězda
In the right part of the SW face via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Vánoční hvězda
From the NE gorge, ascend the crack under the overhang to the hourglass. Take the left… Rock Climbing
5
Vánoční hvězda
In the middle of the SW face, up the crack and chimney to the platform, then up the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Vánoční hvězda
From the SW, directly up the crack to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Malý kozy
At the eastern corner via a crack in the flake and up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Malý kozy
The ascent starts on the NE side. Overhang from the block to the ledge and then into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Malý kozy
Follow the Mustr route to the ledge and up the wall along the southern edge (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Malý kozy
Follow the Mustr route for about three meters and traverse right to the edge. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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