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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Vánoční hvězda
Follow the Ice Man route under the overhang. Take the right crack (1st ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Vánoční hvězda
The ascent starts to the left of the Ice Man route. Up the wall to the 1st ring, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Malý kozy
To the right of the Chimney of Despair route via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Najáda
To the left of Pyják chimney route through cracks and up the wall to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Malý kozy
From NE via a crack into the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Najáda
Up the NE chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Najáda
In the right part of the NE wall through a crack and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Najáda
In the left part of the NE wall via a crack (ring) to the flake and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lucifer (Světlonoš)
Variant "View into the Valley" to the ring and up the wall to the 2nd ring. By building… Rock Climbing
7
Najáda
To the left of Puchonkáč route via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Lucifer (Světlonoš)
Route no. 1 to the inter-tower gap, by chimneying to the ledge and left via the recess n.… Rock Climbing
7-
Lucifer (Světlonoš)
From S traverse the wall to the right (1st ring) to the balcony to the 2nd ring. Step… Rock Climbing
6
Lucifer (Světlonoš)
From the terrace of route no. 1 up the wall (ring) to the inter-tower gap and via route… Rock Climbing
6-
Lucifer (Světlonoš)
From the N from the terrace via an overhanging corner crack to the inter-tower gap. Route… Rock Climbing
5+
Lucifer (Světlonoš)
From NW through the chimney to the terrace for the ascent. Along the ledge to the right… Rock Climbing
9
Makak
From the foreground rock on the valley side through a crack (1st ring) and a crack (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Třešňová stěna
In the right part of the NE wall through a crack or from the right via a small corner… Rock Climbing
6
Třešňová stěna
Double crack in the SE corner, higher up a crack over the overhang (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stěna Bédy Schejbala
Up the valley crack directly, higher diagonally left to the balcony. Up the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Třešňová stěna
In the valley (NE) wall via the left crack to the ledge, step right into the corner and… Rock Climbing
6
Paní Telátková
Climbing onto the eastern lying edge and along it to a large ledge. Up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vepř
Expanding hand crack in the NE face (loops) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Koprdelec
Crack in the right part of the valley wall (ring) to the balcony. Traverse left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Cvičná skála
From S, over the bowls directly n. v. Rock Climbing
7
Cvičná skála
Rock Climbing
3
Cvičná skála
From SW, via the gully and higher up the wall to the summit Rock Climbing
2
Cvičná skála
From SE, via artificial steps n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Cvičná skála
From E, up the small wall directly n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Cvičná skála
Along the NE stepped edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Cvičná skála
From S, to the ledge and over the pocket n. v. Rock Climbing

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