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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Úřad
Up the crack to the right of the "Kontrola" route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Úřad
Up the south wall of the overhanging block to the ring and left up the wall to its top.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Úřad
Up the SE pyrite wall left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Šikulka
UIAA cl. 3Description missing Rock Climbing
5+
Hrdinný pudl
UIAA cl. 5+From the base up the wall along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Šovinistická věž
From the gorge (from the west) via a crack to the 1st ring. Traverse slightly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Třetí princ
UIAA cl. 7In the middle of the SW face via a crack (ring) over the overhang and traverse… Rock Climbing
3
Šém
UIAA cl. 3From S from between the towers via a right chimney and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Kostelník
UIAA cl. 4From N from a blind passage via a chimney into a cave. Via a narrow chimney and… Rock Climbing
7+
Tydlidán
UIAA cl. 7+From the tourist path via a chimney to a ledge, down along it and via a crack… Rock Climbing
6+
Kostelník
UIAA cl. 6+In the middle of the SW face via a crack to a small balcony, to the right… Rock Climbing
7-
Šém
UIAA cl. 7-From S from between the towers via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
8
Páter
UIAA cl. 8From the W fore-rock in the ledge to the right to the 1st ring. Along the wall … Rock Climbing
5
Rabín
UIAA cl. 5Behind the fore-rock below the SW face, from the corner via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing
4
Puska
UIAA cl. 4Via the chimney between Puska and Plasa into the inner space behind the tower.… Rock Climbing
5
Pláša
UIAA cl. 5From the fore-rock in the gorge between Plasa and Golem via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing
1
Pláša
UIAA cl. 1From the summit of Puska. Rock Climbing
6-
Pytlácká vyhlídka
To the left of the west edge, via a receding corner crack to the balcony. Through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+
Puska
UIAA cl. 6+Via route no. 1 to Trubač to the ring. Traverse along the wall (ring) to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Pytlácká vyhlídka
From SW, traverse over blocks to the fore-rock in the SW face. Via a crack into a small… Rock Climbing
3
Helmut
UIAA grade 3. From the adjacent massif descend by wall to a small needle. By step-over… Rock Climbing
8
Holoubek
UIAA grade 8. From S by chimney to the block. By aid climbing and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5
Holubička
UIAA grade 5. From SE by traverse to the ring. (Aid climbing, if needed) to the ledge,… Rock Climbing
3
Personata
UIAA grade 3. From the uphill massif descend by edge, by step-over and by wall to the… Rock Climbing
4
Egon
From the uphill (south) massif descend to a small balcony, over an overhang/traverse and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Egon
From the uphill massif descend by chimney, by step-over and to the right by overgrown… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Egon
At the northwest edge by wall over 2 rings, left to the edge and over 5 rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Tesák
Right uphill (NE) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Poustevna (Otec Scholastika)
Right uphill (SE) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ježura
Right part of the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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