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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Ježura
NW wall left to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Ježura
By wall along the west edge (ring) and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Eiffelovka
From the uphill side by chimney and wall to the block. By step-over and wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing
3
Mořská kráva
Uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Harpie
NW chimney to the pillar, traverse/overhang and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dikobraz
From SW by chimney to the pre-summit. Rock Climbing
6
Blboun nejapný
Valley (NE) crack to the ring. Wall diagonally left to the ring of the Fossil Route and… Rock Climbing
5
Blboun nejapný
From the uphill side by wall and aid climbing to the ring. To the right by wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Dikobraz
To the left on the NE side of the tower by cracks to the pillar. Along the east edge to… Rock Climbing
5
Dikobraz
To the right of the route Narrow Chimney, by wall into the chimney, through it and by… Rock Climbing
5+
Obludárium
From the uphill side by traverse and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Voštěp
Up the valley crack and face (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Voštěp
From the left, along the ledge to the left valley edge and along it (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Řáholec
From the SW, follow the cracks up the pillars, across them, and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Gerda mravenec
From the pillar on the plateau side, up the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Termitiště
Near the east edge, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hojba
Up the NE face to the ledge, traverse left onto the edge and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hojba
Along the west edge to the ledge, aiding and up the face to the 'hodiny' (rock feature).… Rock Climbing
4-
Brko
From the plateau side, between Babuch and the fore-rock, follow the corner crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Mášenka
Up the SW face (pine tree) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Brko
In the right part of the SW face, follow the crack up the pillar to the 1st ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Brko
Up the valley chimney to the saddle and via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Brko
From the plateau side, up the conical chimney to the saddle and from the right, up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Brko
From the SE, follow the crack up the pillar to the 1st ring. Up the face (2nd ring) to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pimpas
In the SE face, follow the cracks to the ring. Up the crack over the overhang, through… Rock Climbing
5+
Brko
Up the valley crack (ring) to the saddle. Up the face to the right and along the north… Rock Climbing
4-
Pimpas
From the NW, up the chimney to the false summit, then across the gully and left up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lochneska
Between Loch Ness and Babuch, by stemming (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Babuch
Via the Údolníkomín route to Brko to the saddle. Up the face (ring) and right along the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Pimpas
In the valley face, follow the crack in the corner to a ledge, then traverse right along… Rock Climbing

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