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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Satan
In the middle of the SW face, follow the crack to the 1st ring. Traverse left across the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Satan
4m right of the "Veselá cesta" (Merry Way) along the edge (2R) and slightly left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Čamrda
The ascent starts in the gorge near the south edge. Traverse left into the crack and… Rock Climbing
7
Satan
In the right part of the valley wall, follow the crack to the ledge and left via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Policajt
Up the wall along the western edge, past 3 rings, to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Diktát
Along the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Diktát
Up the valley wall (3 rings) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Satan
Right of the eastern corner of the tower via a crack to the end, then traverse left along… Rock Climbing
6-
Zámělská
In the left part of the NE wall to the 1st ring. Via the overhanging crack (2nd ring) and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Zámělská
From the plateau side (from S) via a slanting chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Zámělská
From the E to the fore-rock, left over the hole to the 1st ring, up the vertical gully … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zámělská
Through the right part of the NE wall via a crack (2 rings) and small pillars to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zámělská
From the west in the middle of the wall on the slope, follow the small crack to the first… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Moravská brána
Right of the S edge via a crack and wall (ring) to the overgrown balcony and via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Moravská brána
Through the chimney from the SW to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Moravská brána
Through the center of the SW wall along the small pillars (2 rings), from the 2nd Q … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Moravská brána
Along the southern edge of the wall to the ring, further to the overgrown balcony, and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Moravská brána
Through the chimney between the towers to the end, and then step over to the main tower.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kvakinger
Up the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kvakinger
Up the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mravenečník
From NW from the gorge via a crack to the balcony (birch). With substantial building into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kvakinger
Up the valley crack and then the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pivní skaut
Left in the upland gorge via a crack to a block. Up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kvakinger
Up the upland left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvakinger
Up the upland crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pivní skaut
In the SW wall via shallow cracks to the end, up the wall right to the ring of route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Sírová věž
In the NE gorge via opposition, building (artificial aid), and crack to the pillar at the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Pivní skaut
From the outer rock by descending and stepping over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Skalpel
North of Skalpel, from the chimney between the outer rocks, a twin crack to a flake of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hrošík
West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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