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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Žirafa
By Sunday Route to the 1st ring. To the right by crack (ring) to the pre-summit. By West… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Perla
Between Pearl and Giraffe via chimney and stemming to a small balcony (1st ring). From… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Žirafa
From the west via a corner crack into a hole. Traverse to the south side and by crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Žirafa
To the left of C. Sunday hand crack to the upper part of "Nedělní" (Sunday). Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Pinguin
From the plateau gorge into the chimney and up it to the pillar. By building/aid and wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Průčelník
To the right in the plateau wall, further right and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Průčelník
In the plateau wall to the right over a ramp to the ring, from the right by wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Achmeton
By crack and chimney to the pre-summit. By wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Chocholouš
Via the corner to the southeast fore-summit. Via an overhang/rappel and artificial… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Chocholouš
From SW via a double crack into the window and by crawling through to the opposite side.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Achmeton
By wall along the south edge to the clock feature, traverse by wall left to the pre… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mahárádža
From the fore-summit via an overhang/rappel to the ledge, traverse right along it, via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Anna
From the plateau pillar (from the west) to the right from the overhang/rappel with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Věž tří přátel
From the plateau side via a stemming chimney to the gallery, along it to the right around… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž tří přátel
From the gallery by artificial climbing and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Mahárádža
In the left part of the plateau wall via a crack to the pillar. Up the wall to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Brabenec
From the plateau fore-rock with significant artificial climbing to the plateau. Along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Brabenec
From the west, a step-over and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Psohlavec
From the plateau side via a conical chimney to the pillar. Traversing along the ledge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Psohlavec
From the valley side via a corner crack into the small cave. Via the crack into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dudek
Via the left plateau crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Věž Eriky
To the left of Václavská Route (artificial climbing) up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Dřevěné kladivo
On the plateau side by stemming/straddling to the 'hours' (hourglass/feature), left to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Věž Eriky
From the fore-rock from NE via an overhang/rappel (artificial climbing) and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž Eriky
From the southern edge, traverse left along the wall to the 'sokolík' and via it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Dudek
Via the right plateau crack to the plateau. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Krahujec
Along the left summit edge to the large 'hours' (hourglass/feature), by artificial… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Dudek
From NE along the overgrown wall to the ledge, via the diagonal chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Krahujec
From SW purely by artificial climbing (or 'building up' technique) to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malý pytel mouky
From the upper side (from SW) descend via a crack, step over and bridge to the bolt. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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