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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Světec
From the ledge on the valley side via the wall along the north ridge (2 bolts) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Světec
From the block from the south with a step-over and a laid edge to the ring. Briefly right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Velký pytel mouky
From the valley via the green chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pekelný kotel
In the western corner via a chimney and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pekelný kotel
To the right on the south wall via a crack and a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Velký pytel mouky
From the upper massif by stepping over, then via the wall to the left and up the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Neforemná
From the upper side traverse left to the NW ridge and over the grassy patches to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mlýnské kolo
Via the SW crack to the false summit. Step over and right via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4
Neforemná
In the middle of the upper wall via a wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mlýnské kolo
Climb through the chimney to the W ridge. Via a short wider crack to the false summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mlýnské kolo
Via the NE chimney to the false summit. Aid climbing to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ďáblův trůn
From the upper gorge, from the right corner, traverse right along the wall into a gully… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Judy
From the boulder near the SE wall, by standing on the pulpit. By standing left and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Judy
Via the chimney between Devil's Throne and Judy for about 10 m, then right via a crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ďáblův trůn
From the NE via a chimney to the false summit and without aid climbing via the "Pekelná"… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Ďáblův trůn
Left on the SW wall via a system of cracks to the 1st bolt. Along the small crack to its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Nefertiti
Via the NW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Katrin
Via the right valley crack to the saddle between Katrin and Smrtka. Then by the Lečo… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Katrin
From the SW via a chimney to the saddle between Katrin and Smrtka. Then via the rib and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tutanchámon
From the NW via the falcon crack left to the bolt. Step left into the next crack and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Mlýnská myš
Via the SW wall (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mlynářka
The ascent starts from the SW from the edge. By descending, from the overhang via aid… Rock Climbing
4-
Mlýnská myš
Aid climbing and via the south ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bonifác
From the west via a chimney into a split. Aid climbing and from the right via the wall to… Rock Climbing
5
Smrtka
From the upper side via a chimney between Smrtka and the adjacent rock. Step left onto… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Barnabáš
From the upper side, build and along the edge to the plateau. Left by crack and chimney… Rock Climbing
3
Mládek
Upper chimney to the pre-summit and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Služka
From SE, from the upper gorge, build into a wide chimney and opposition to the ring. From… Rock Climbing
3
Mlýn
The ascent starts below the center of the SE wall. Through the chimney, which changes… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Helmuta Kohla
From the south (between Helmut Kohl Tower and Mill) crack, chimney and opposition to the… Rock Climbing

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