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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Holka kozatá
SW face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Admirál
From the NE via a chimney to the pillar and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Petrovy kameny
In the right part of the upland wall via a chimney to the balcony and via the wall (aid… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Věž Vladimíra Menšíka
From the edge by descent, overflow and left crack to the ledge. By aid climbing and wall… Rock Climbing
3
Hříbátko
In the right part of the NW face via a small crack to the balcony. Via the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Dlouhý, široký a bystrozraký
Through the right part of the NW face to the pulpit. Via the wall over the overhang and… Rock Climbing
5
Dlouhý, široký a bystrozraký
In the middle of the NW face via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Hříbátko
From the upland (SE) side via a crack and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Dlouhý, široký a bystrozraký
Via a crack (ring) and pyrite wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Dlouhý, široký a bystrozraký
In the left part of the NW face via a crack to the pillar. By stepping over and along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Česká věž
In the gorge between the Czech and German Tower by opposition to the ring. Along the edge… Rock Climbing
4+
Hříbátko
The access is in the left part of the valley (NW) face. Via the wall from the left or… Rock Climbing
4+
Německá věž
Through the left part of the north face and a crack through the hole to a large ledge.… Rock Climbing
3
Německá věž
From the gorge between the German and Czech Tower via a gully to a large ledge. By aid… Rock Climbing
3
Černý Petr
From the east, by descending, then stepping across onto the wall and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Gerda
From the platform, along the east edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Gerda
From the east (between Gerda and Titanic) via chimney, opposition and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Gerda
From the high-altitude gorge in the ledge to the right into the chimney, by opposition… Rock Climbing
4+
Mok
In the middle of the SW wall, via the crack to the ring. Diagonally left along the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Mok
From the NW, via the corner crack (1st ring) into the cave and under the overhang,… Rock Climbing
3
Peněžní věž
From the upper gorge (from SW), right up the wall to the crack and via it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Peněžní věž
From the upper gorge (from SW), up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Stožárový koš
Via the SW chimney and by stemming to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bráhman
Along the upper edge to the small pillar and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hekáte
To the right of the route, up the overhanging crack on the wall to the platform. Right… Rock Climbing
5
Hekáte
On the upper wall, via a diagonal crack to a shelf, then left beyond the west edge and up… Rock Climbing
5+
Hekáte
Through the left part of the valley (NE) wall to the 1st ring. Via a small crack, higher… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Gilgameš
From the upper rim/edge, by jumping/stepping across to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Agamemnon
From the valley side, through the chimney between Agamemnon and the block to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Agamemnon
From the gorge (from SE), by stemming to the ring. From the overhang, by stemming… Rock Climbing

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