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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Gilgameš
In the gully/notch between the towers, on the plateau side, via the chimney and by… Rock Climbing
5+
Gilgameš
From the north, through the chimney and right to the balcony. Along the edge to the ledge… Rock Climbing
2+
Žokej
Rock Climbing
4+
Žokej
Up the valley chimney to its end. Traverse right along the ledge to the gully of the … Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Žokej
The start is in the left part of the valley (NW) wall. From the block, climb the small… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Žokej
From the rim, by jumping/stepping across to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Žokej
From the start of the Southern Chimney route, traverse left on the wall past the edge. Up… Rock Climbing
5
Odysseus
From the NE, via the opposition chimney to the beginning of the overgrown gully, through… Rock Climbing
6
Odysseus
In the left part of the SE face, with aid climbing (or building a stance) and a system of… Rock Climbing
4-
Žokej
To the left of the route, Southern Chimney via stemming and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Odysseus
From the gorge on the NW side, via the crack and indentation to the 1st ring. Through… Rock Climbing
4-
Angelika
From the upland side, up the face to the left (ring) to the edge. To the left up the face… Rock Climbing
4-
Trojská
From the SE, via the corner crack to the balcony and up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Trojská
From the passage in the inter-tower via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Trojská
From the SW, over the steps below the crack, through it to the ledge and up the face to… Rock Climbing
4-
Hříbě
From the southern fore-rock, up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Šnek Matěj
From 'Skřítek Vítek' (Gnome Vítek) by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pampalíny
Rock Climbing
4-
Skřítek Vítek
Up the SW face and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kašpárek
Along the western edge, over the overhang and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Šnek Matěj
From the SW, via the overflow and left up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kašpárek
To the left of the route 'Severovýchodní komín' (Northeast Chimney) up the face to the… Rock Climbing
3
Kašpárek
Rock Climbing
4-
Kašpárek
To the right of the western edge, up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kašpárek
Rock Climbing
5
Kašpárek
Traverse the SE face to the right, over the eastern and northern edge, into the route … Rock Climbing
3
Kašpárek
Rock Climbing
9
Husita
From the Warrior's Eye route, climb around the Eye and from there directly to the rappel… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
9
Husita
From the 'Warrior's Eye' route, traverse left across the hourglass into the 'Vomited… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
6
Husita
From the SW, up a diagonal crack to the window. Through the hole and along the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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