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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Mlýn
Left on the SE side, opposition against a block and crack into the widening. Traverse… Rock Climbing
4+
Mlýn
From the west, corner crack to the pre-summit. Via the Wavy Stone route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Karásek
NW crack (ring) to the cave, in the ledge right to the chimney, opposition and wall left… Rock Climbing
3
Krocánek
On the SW side from the boulder, traverse and wall left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Lýdie
In the valley wall, right upwards, build into the crack and follow it (ring) to the… Rock Climbing
3
Ptáček
SW chimney and opposition to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí
From NW, narrow chimney, higher up gully to the pre-summit. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Ptačí
SW chimney to the pillar and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Horníček
From the blocks between Horníček and Ptačí věž (Bird Tower) up the wall and left through… Rock Climbing
2+
Prvnička
SE chimney in the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Ilse
Left in the gorge-chimney to the pillar. Traverse and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Ušatec
From the SE, from the outer edge/overhang, by stepping over and then along the edge to… Rock Climbing
4-
Larva
From the upper (plateau) side, by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Ušatec
In a corner on the NW side of the tower, via a chimney to a block. Traverse in the… Rock Climbing
3
Prvnička
Via the SW chimney to a block. Then by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Divná
At the right upper (plateau) corner, by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Krajánek
To the left of the start of the Southwest Edge route, via a crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mlynář
The ascent starts in the gorge below the left part of the NW face. Via a chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Krajánek
From the gorge (from Mlynář), via a chimney to a pine tree. Traverse in the chimney to… Rock Climbing
5
Katolík
From the south by stemming to the 1st and 2nd ring, which is placed in the wall of the… Rock Climbing
5
Achilles
From the fore-rock (or lower part of the rock) to the right of the north edge, via a… Rock Climbing
3
Katolík
From the NW, to the left via a narrow chimney to a pillar. Then by a crack to a plateau… Rock Climbing
3
Varhanní píšťala
From Katolík by descending, then traversing and to the left via a crack to the edge. Then… Rock Climbing
3
Varhanní píšťala
Via the SW chimney and to the right by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Skopeček
Via a chimney from the East to a pillar, then by the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kinematograf
To the right in the upper (plateau) face, via a muddy gully to a pillar. Along the east… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kachnička
Left of route "Kilo nám zbylo" via a wide crack and chimney. Finish via route … Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Kachnička
From the valley (NE) corner under the ceiling, traverse right and via the pyrite corner … Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Kachnička
Right in the NW face via a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Petrovy kameny
In the valley wall via a crack (2 rings) and along the edge (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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