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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

9
Čertův hrádek
Up the middle of the NE face (3 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Čertův hrádek
From the block on the lower side via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
8
Čertův hrádek
Via the Devil's Mange route to a shelf and traverse right along the face to the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čertův hrádek
Via the left crack on the NE face (ring), higher up the face. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Čertův hrádek
In the left part of the NE face via a corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Čertovská Monika
From the SE via a narrow chimney (to the right of the Infectious Gully route) into the… Rock Climbing
6
Čertovská Monika
In the NE face via a crack over an overhang and a corner (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Čertovská Monika
In the right part of the NE face (to the right of the Quarantine route) via a crack (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
1
Čertovská Monika
From the plateau massif by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Čertovská Monika
In the left part of the SE face via a crack to the ledge, traverse right on the ledge… Rock Climbing
3
Čertovská Monika
Rock Climbing
3
Kyklák
Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kyklák
From the edge by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Káča Máša
From NE up the wall, through the crack over the overhang and higher again up the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Čertovská Monika
Via the Infectious Gully route to the ledge, directly up the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Kožich
The start is to the left of the overgrown corner (from NE). Up the diverging crack to the… Rock Climbing
7
Kožich
Through the crack in the SW wall to the ledge, then traverse left (ring) into the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Káča Máša
From SW through the chimney to the pillar to the 1st ring. By construction and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kožich
The start is on the pillar above the bivouac. To the right of the pillar edge, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kožich
Up the right SW crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kožich
To the left of the route 'Zvířata lásky', through the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Kožich
Up the left SW crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Kožich
From NE, to the right of the route 'Vyprášený kožich', through a narrow crack (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Pokušitel
Left of the Pralinka route, from the boulder, up the crack to the ring. Up the crack to… Rock Climbing
6
Pokušitel
To the right of the eastern corner from the block, up the crack to the pre-summit, then… Rock Climbing
7
Kožíšek
Through the crack in the NE wall, higher obliquely left to the balcony. Up the wall along… Rock Climbing
6
Kožich
From NE (higher on the slope) through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Kožich
Through the corner to the left of the route 'Vyprášený kožich' into the route 'Lysina v… Rock Climbing
5
Pokušitel
Two meters to the left of the southern corner, up the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Babulík
Through the SW corner crack to the block and along the Babí jaro route to the summit. Rock Climbing

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