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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Daliborka
Through the SE face below the rappel point to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hronováček
Rock Climbing
4-
Hronováček
Class UIAA 4. From N via a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hronováček
In the middle of the NE wall along concretions/pyrite nodules to a prominent pocket, from… Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Daliborka
Approach on the NE, via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hronováček
Rock Climbing
9
Hlídač váhy
Along the West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Overhang
2+
Hronováček
Class UIAA 2. Description missing. Rock Climbing
3
Hlídač váhy
Rock Climbing
3
Hronováček
Rock Climbing
6
Hlídač váhy
Rock Climbing
4+
Hlídač váhy
From NE via a gash/notch, left onto a ledge, via a crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Hlídač váhy
From NE via a chimney between the tower and the pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Hlídač váhy
From the East massif left onto a balcony and via a SE gash/notch to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hlídač váhy
Rock Climbing
6
Hlídač váhy
Rock Climbing Danger
2+
Hlídač váhy
Rock Climbing
3
Jitčina
From SE via a crack or from the right along the wall to the chimney, through it to the… Rock Climbing
3
Jitčina
Class UIAA 3. Description missing. Rock Climbing
4+
Andulka
Along the W edge to K, up the face left to the balcony and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Jitčina
Rock Climbing
5
Jitčina
From the north from the valley via a crack over an overhang into a corner, through it to… Rock Climbing
3
Jitčina
Rock Climbing
5+
Padavka
Along the S face into the cave, through the passage and along the N face (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Padavka
Rock Climbing
4+
Toník
Via the opposing chimney/friction climb at the W edge and left along the NW face over K… Rock Climbing
5
Padavka
UIAA class 5 Right of the W edge up the face to the balcony. Along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Recepce
Right in the NE face via a notch and small arête to the ledge (K). Up the face to the… Rock Climbing
5
Recepce
Rock Climbing
5+
Recepce
Rock Climbing

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