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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Recepce
Right of the NE corner via the crack in the edge to the balcony (K) and from the right up… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Spirálová
Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Spirálová
Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Spirálová
Rock Climbing
5+
Spirálová
UIAA grade 6. Via a crack in the NW face to the bolt. Using a stance, traverse right… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Spirálová
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Spirálová
Rock Climbing
4+
Spirálová
UIAA grade 5. From the chimney between Spirálová and Štětináč, via a gully to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
6-
Spirálová
Via a crack in the west face under the overhang (sling), traverse left and via a crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Spirálová
From the ledge, traverse left along the wall to the 2nd bolt of the Starkovská direct… Rock Climbing Danger
4-
Smutná
Rock Climbing
5
Smutná
UIAA grade 5+. From the SE corner via a slab to the balcony. Upwards via a chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Smutná
From the N, traverse into the chimney, through it and higher up to the right over blocks… Rock Climbing
3
Smutná
From Veselá věž (Merry Tower), descent, overhang and W edge upwards. Rock Climbing Danger
7-/7
Smutná
Rock Climbing
5+
Smutná
Rock Climbing
4+
Exulant
UIAA grade 5. Description missing. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Exulant
UIAA grade 7-. From the saddle between the tower and Janička, via own crack to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Exulant
UIAA grade 7-. In the right part of the NE face, via a crack (bolt) to the ledge, then… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Janička
Rock Climbing
?
Janička
kl. UIAA Jump 2 Via route no. 1 to Exulant to the detached block. By jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Exulant
kl. UIAA 4 Diagonally up the crack in the SW wall to the detached block. Left wall to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Exulant
Via a rainy path to the saddle, through the Chimney to the 1st bolt and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kafírenská
From SW from the cave via the left crack to the balcony and right via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Chozé
Rock Climbing
4-
Chozé
Rock Climbing
4+
Janička
kl. UIAA 5 Via chimney between Exulant and Janicka to the ring. Right wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Kafírenská
From NE via the right crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kafírenská
Up the wall near the west edge (ring) to the first balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Kafírenská
From the pine tree below the NW wall, via the valley chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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