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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Kafírenská
From the pine tree below the NW wall, traverse to the ledge on the right to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Želvička
Rock Climbing
3
Želvička
Rock Climbing
2+
Želvička
From SE, traverse to the inclined edge and up the wall. Rock Climbing
2+
Želvička
From SW, by opposition between the Dědek tower to the ledge, traverse left, then via… Rock Climbing
2+
Želvička
Rock Climbing
6-
Starkováček
Via Hugo's route to the pillar, step left onto the west edge to the 1st ring and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Starkováček
In the valley (NE) wall via a system of cracks to the 1st ring. Via a crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Starkováček
Briefly via Hugo's route and directly via a crack (ring) to its end. Step left into Hugo… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Starkováček
From the south via a double crack or passage and a chimney to the pillar. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Rotunda
From the ledge straight up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Rotunda
From SW over steps to the saddle to Komáří věž, up the wall to a ledge (hourglass),… Rock Climbing
3
Rotunda
Along the ledge traverse right and up a shallow gully. Rock Climbing
5+
Rotunda
Rock Climbing Danger
6+/7-
Komáří
Along the north edge through a crack and over the hourglass higher up to the summit. … Rock Climbing
7-/7
Komáří
Rock Climbing
2+
Komáří
Via MONAJZLOVÁ route to ROTUNDA into the saddle and up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Komáří
Rock Climbing Danger
6+/7-
Hobišáček
UIAA cl. 7-In the valley wall, a system of cracks over an overhang (ring). Up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Hobišáček
Rock Climbing
4+
Hobišáček
UIAA cl. 4Z from the right side via a crack to the balcony and along it to the North edge… Rock Climbing
5
Hobišáček
UIAA cl. 5 From the ring straight up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Věž pana Fojta
Rock Climbing
4-
Věž pana Fojta
Rock Climbing
5+
Věž pana Fojta
Rock Climbing
5
Věž pana Fojta
Rock Climbing
7/7+
Věž Járy Cimrmana
Rock Climbing
2+
Věž pana Fojta
From the start of the SW wall on LUMP to the left onto the ledge, step across and by wall… Rock Climbing
5
Věž pana Fojta
Rock Climbing
6-
Věž Járy Cimrmana
Rock Climbing

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