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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Špunt
From NW over the boulder directly by the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Homole
Along the S edge under the overhang to the 1st ring. By the wall over the overhang and… Rock Climbing
6
Homole
From the NE by the wall along the cracks into the "nest". By the wall to the ring and to… Rock Climbing
5+
Bubák
From the NE via an overhanging wide crack to the fore-rock and by the "Path of Fear" to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Špunt
Along the SE edge. Rock Climbing
8
Bubák
From the 3rd ring along the N edge (4th ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Bubák
From the chimney from Váhavec (or by the wall from S) to the fore-rock. By step-over to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-
Bubák
NE wall (2 rings) to the 3rd ring. Above it traverse right to the W edge (4th ring) and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Velbloud
By jump from the summit of Váhavec. Rock Climbing Route on sun
7
Velbloud
From the NE from the inter-tower via chimney, by opposition and wall (ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Velbloud
From the SW via the chimney to the block and via the "Chimney" route to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Velbloud
Through the chimney between the tower and Váhavec up to the crack, through which to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
2
Plotna
Rock Climbing
5
Velbloud
Via the "Chimney" route to the right part of the adjacent block. To the right by overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Laid wall
2
Velbloud
From the NE via the chimney to the block and by the wall to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Plotna
Through the middle of the slab straight to the top. Rock Climbing
6+
Labuť
Directly up the wall to the 1st ring of route No. 2 and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Labuť
From E (from the boulder) right up the wall to the 1st ring. Along the edge (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing
5
Labuť
From NE (from Velbloud) over boulders to the saddle. Right behind the edge and up the… Rock Climbing
2
Plotna
In the left part of the slab (under the overgrown terrain) by the wall diagonally to the… Rock Climbing
4
Sváteční
From the passage (from W) via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Trosky
The start is in the left part of the valley face. Up the gully around the small birch to… Rock Climbing
3
Trosky
In the upper face, in the notch, diagonally right and up the wall. Rock Climbing
2
Trosky
To the SE edge via the crack to the right of the edge. Rock Climbing
4
Trosky
In the valley face, up a prominent corner to below a large boulder. Left via a crack and… Rock Climbing
2
Trosky
Rock Climbing
6
Sněhová královna
In the left part of the valley face, up a narrow chimney to the pillar. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
2
Prcek
From E, up the small chimney to the fore-rock of route No. 1 and up the right part of the… Rock Climbing
3
Prcek
Up the wall along the quartz nodules to the ledge, traverse right on it, and up the wall. Rock Climbing
6
Uspěchaná
NE face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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