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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Zaječí
From E up the wall and through a small crack to the pillar. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Zaječí
To the right of the start of the Kaskáda route by opposition and step-over onto an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Želva
Left of the "Turtle Soup" route from the block, step over to the ring and along the west… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Želva
From the west from the plateau side up the pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Želva
Along the west edge directly to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Želva
From the west up the narrow chimney (slings) to its end and up the wall to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing
6
Želva
From the north through a notch left onto the plateau. From the left or directly onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Hlídač
From the plateau side (from the edge routes) left behind the edge. By stemming to the… Rock Climbing
3
Hlídač
At the right valley corner (from Předskokan) up the chimney to the blocks and descend… Rock Climbing
2
Hlídač
Right of route no. 1 onto the nose and up the overgrown wall to the ridge. Via route no.… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Královna
From the E edge of the S summit of Peklo, by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Královna
From the start of route no. 1 to Peklo, through to the main chimney. Up the chimney,… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Královna
From the S summit of Peklo, descend to the NE block. By jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+
Královna
Start via route no. 10 to Peklo, following it to the 3rd ring. Traverse left to the edge… Rock Climbing
2
Paleček
Rock Climbing
5
Ovečka
In the NE face along the notch and left up the wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Ovečka
Along the North edge, left along the small crack and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Paleček
From the North via the crack and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Salaš
Via the NE chimneys to the balcony and up the wall n.v. Rock Climbing
5
Beránek
Along the valley crack to the pillar (this point can also be easily reached via a notch… Rock Climbing
3
Beránek
Left from the valley through the chimney and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
První
From the southeast plateau side via a small chimney to the block. Overhang into the wall… Rock Climbing Route on sun Laid wall
4
První
The start is on the valley (E) side of the tower. Via the Sokolík to the window, through… Rock Climbing
2
První
From the SW via a chimney to the fore-rock and to the left a small wall n.v. Rock Climbing
4
První
From the N (from the boulder) to the small balcony and via route no. 2 n.v. Rock Climbing
5
První
From the W via a crack (ring) to the small balcony and directly up the wall n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Hranol v zemi
From the E via a chimney and to the left a small wall to the summit Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
2
Jehla
Via the NE face directly below the pinnacle and via route no. 1 n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Jehla
Along the edge below the pinnacle and via route no. 1 n.v. Rock Climbing
2
Jehla
From the SE via the wall to the first and by stepping over to the second pillar. Crossing… Rock Climbing

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