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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Prcek
From the passage between the tower and the Monastery (from S), up the chimney and wall. Rock Climbing
3
Prcek
From the start of route No. 1, directly up the wall. Rock Climbing
6
Uspěchaná
NE face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Větrná
From S by small chimneys to the ring and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Větrná
From SW by a small chimney to the block and up the wall to the second block. By build-up … Rock Climbing
6
Větrná
Through a narrow overhanging chimney from the inter-tower (from Eagle's Nest) to the… Rock Climbing
7
Větrná
From NE along the ledge to the right, up the gully and fissure to the end. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Orlíček
Along the left edge of the N wall and a sloping gully to the ring. Up the middle of the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Orlíček
By a jump (traverse) from Eagle's Nest. Rock Climbing
5
Orlíček
Along the rounded SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Orlíček
By E wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Orlíček
To the right of route no. 1 up the wall along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Orlí hnízdo
To the right of route no. 6 through a curved crack into the fissure of route no. 6 and by… Rock Climbing
3
Orlí hnízdo
From NE (from Orlická) by the left fissure to the pillar. By chimney and wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Orlí hnízdo
From N along the pyrite wall to the left (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Orlí hnízdo
From the summit of Věčná by a jump (traverse) to the sub-summit terrace. By route no. 1… Rock Climbing
6+
Orlí hnízdo
Up a small wall (ring) to the pillar and via route no. 6 to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Orlí hnízdo
From NW along the corridor boulders and left by the chimney to the sub-summit terrace.… Rock Climbing
3
Orlí hnízdo
Route no. 8 to the boulder field and by the left chimney under the overhang. Step right… Rock Climbing
2
Orlí hnízdo
From W by chimney into the corridor of route no. 1 and by that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Orlí hnízdo
By route no. 9 under the overhang. Through a narrow chimney to the saddle, by chimney and… Rock Climbing
3
Orlí hnízdo
Above the passage of route no. 1 through the chimney and by opposition to the pillar. By… Rock Climbing
5
Orlí hnízdo
From SE through the chimney to the boulder field. From its right edge by overhang into… Rock Climbing
5
Orlí hnízdo
NE chimney (below the rappel) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Zaječí
From NE from the small balcony up a small wall to a slab and along it left to a crack.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Zaječí
From the balcony directly up the wall over the overhang to the small balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Zaječí
Via the Lachout route to the 1st ring and directly up the wall (2nd ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Zaječí
In the valley (SE) wall through a crack and up the wall to the ring. Traverse right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Zaječí
Via the 'For Petra' route to an elongated block. From the right up the wall over small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Zaječí
To the right of the start of the Kaskáda route by opposition and step-over onto an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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