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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Bubáček
Along the Northwest ridge to the summit. To the right, along the West ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
5
Čvanč
Along the S edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čvanč
Along the N edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hubáček
Along the SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Hubáček
From E via a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Sídlo
Rock Climbing
3
Hubáček
Along the W edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Hubáček
From E via a chimney to the SE balcony and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Bachyně
From the upper side via the wall over a small balcony to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Výčep
To the left of the route 'Dobrej konec' via a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Výčep
Up the wall along the valley edge (1st ring) to the balcony and up the wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Diblík
Through a short crack in the north face (ring) and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Kotlík
From the upper side traverse left to the NW edge and diagonally right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Kotlík
From the upper side (from SE) by climbing, gully, and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Belzebub
Via a slanting crack in the SW face to the edge at the 1st ring. Left up along the knobs… Rock Climbing
5+
Belzebub
From the upland side, by building/stacking into the knobs/crystalline features and by the… Rock Climbing
7-
Belzebub
From E, via the chimney and face to the 1st ring. To the right, descend via a crack 4m… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Belzebub
From the block, along the left upland edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-
Belzebub
Along the W edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Pivovar
The ascent starts from the block below the NW face. Via a corner crack from the right to… Rock Climbing
5
Pivovar
In the left part of the SW face, via a crack into the chimney, then up it to the pillar… Rock Climbing
5
Pivovar
In the right part of the SW face, via a corner crack to the block, then via a crack to… Rock Climbing
4
Pivovar
From the upland side, via the chimney to the pillars, then traversing along the pillars… Rock Climbing
8
Pivovar
Via a crack in the valley (NW) face to the end at the ring. To the right, ascend the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Pivovar
To the left of the Braník route, up an overhanging crack in the middle of the SW wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Pivovar
Via Bernard route to the ledge, then traverse right to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Pivovar
From SE, traverse along the edges and skip to the pre-summit. Step over and up the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Pivovar
In the middle of the SW wall, an oblique crack into a wider section. By bridging and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Pivovar
In the right part of the NE wall, via a crack, higher up the chimney to the pillars.… Rock Climbing
6
Sarka Farka
To the right of the plateau (eastern) edge, up the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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