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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Chobotnice
UIAA cl. 5Up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Hladomorna
UIAA cl. 4From the SW wall over the overhang, along the crack and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Skalní nevěsta
UIAA cl. 7From SW from the tourist path via a crack (ring) and chimney to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing
7+
Hladomorna
UIAA cl. 7+Via the SE face (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
7
Párátko
UIAA cl. 7From a random or lower side via chimneys to the SW pillar. Along the ledge via… Rock Climbing
8-
Kapucín
UIAA cl. 8-In the right part of the N face via the arête and along the wall along the… Rock Climbing
6+
Kapucín
UIAA cl. 6+From N via a small chimney to the block and via a small chimney to the 1st… Rock Climbing
7
Baldachýn
UIAA cl. 7From the cave behind the fore-rock via a chimney and higher up, traverse in it… Rock Climbing
7-
Golem
UIAA cl. 7-To the right of route no. 1 via a chimney to the pillar (ring). By building… Rock Climbing
6+
Golem
UIAA cl. 6+Via a crack in the S face (2 rings) below the overhang. Traverse down in the… Rock Climbing
4
Trubač
UIAA cl. 4Via the chimney between Trubač and Puska to the small platform of the S edge to… Rock Climbing
10-/10
Holubička
NW edge over 5 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7
Hrdlička
UIAA cl. 7From W via a crack to the balcony, to the right via a slanting crack to the end… Rock Climbing
7
Hláska
UIAA grade 7. SW wall and crack (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing
7
Hláska
UIAA grade 7. Below the W edge via a corner crack to the small pillar. Lower wall section… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
5
Ježek
From SE via Sokolík (chimney/arete) to the balcony (ring) and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Schovanka
NE crack and chimney to the pillar. Wall over a loose boulder to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Schovanka
Up the SE crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bobr
Up the valley crack and along the edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rumcajs
Near the south edge, up the chimney and crack to the block. Over the drop and left along… Rock Climbing
4+
Šídlo
Rock Climbing
6
Šídlo
From the NE, follow the corner crack over the overhang to the pillar and up the crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Panic
Up the east wall to the ledge, then via a build-up and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Poustevník
Along the western edge to the 1st ring. Traverse left into the crack and follow it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
1
Bochník
Via the small hill. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bochník
Via cracks and the wall to the southern edge to the 1st ring and along the edge (2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Poustevník
In the middle of the SE wall, follow the crack into the hole. Then, via the crack and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
1
Strážce cyklostezky
Along the overgrown plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Strážce cyklostezky
From the NE crack to the overhang (1st ring). Traverse right under the overhang and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Věž Otty Černého
Right to the western edge and across the small pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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