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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Paličák
From the plateau side via a conical chimney up to its narrowing. By crawling through to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jidáš
Via the plateau chimney to the block, via the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Datel
From the plateau side via a 'sokolík' crack to the small pillar. Traverse right in the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Datel
To the right from the plateau side with a step-over, along the ledge to the right and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kačer Donald
From the upper gorge via a wide crack to the false summit. Then by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sultán
In the upper gorge near the left corner, crack to the block. Traverse in the chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Rytíř
From the upper gorge, broken crack to the pre-summit. Creeping path to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rytíř
In the left part of the SW wall, cracks to the pillar and via the Lords of the Rose route… Rock Climbing
4-
Rytíř
NE chimney and crack left to the platform. Crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rytíř
The ascent starts on the boulders at the NE corner of the tower. Crack under the overhang… Rock Climbing
6-
Rytíř
In the left part of the valley (NW) wall, crack and wall to the clock. Traverse the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Vyhlídková
NE crack to the end, wall left and corner crack to the blocks. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Vyhlídková
In the corner on the SW side, wide crack to the ring. Crack in the corner to the saddle.… Rock Climbing
5+
Vyhlídková
Along the left upper edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vyhlídková
From the upper gorge, chimney to the saddle. Short overhanging crack to the splinter.… Rock Climbing
3
Kukla
From the upper (plateau) gorge, via a chimney in a corner to a balcony. Then by the face… Rock Climbing
4+
Bota
From the west, via a chimney to a ledge, then by stemming and an overhang into another… Rock Climbing
3
Hrobník
From the NW, via an inner chimney to a plateau. To the left via the face to the second… Rock Climbing
3
Hrobník
In the left part of the NW face, via a system of cracks to the second plateau, then to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Netopýr
From the NE, via a system of cracks to the 1st ring. Below it, traverse the face to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Kardinál
From the through-chimney from Katolík (from NE), via a traverse chimney and stemming to… Rock Climbing
5
Hektor
Along the NW edge to a ring. Climbing up from a stance (or sling/seat), then via a small… Rock Climbing
5
Krasobruslař
Along the north edge over a ring and a ring from an old route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Krasobruslař
From the upper (plateau) terrace, via an open corner over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Kinematograf
To the left in the NW face, via an overhang from a boulder into a hanging crack and along… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Kinematograf
To the left in the valley face, via a corner to a pillar, then along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Kinematograf
Right in the NW face via a small pillar (ring) to an overgrown ledge, Normal route to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Kinematograf
Right of the west edge via a crack to an overgrown ledge, left via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Hrbatá
Via a crack from the valley (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Parník
From the start of the Polní path to Petrovy kameny, crawl through the chimney to the… Rock Climbing

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