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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Ponorka
From the upland (SE) side traverse the wall to the left to the 1st ring. With substantial… Rock Climbing
5+
Titanic
From Gerda by descent, from the overflow by aid climbing and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Konírna
From the NW side, by squeezing through into the chimney and up the double crack within it… Rock Climbing
3
Konírna
From the NW, via the chimney, overhang, and left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kačer
From the west, traverse into the NW wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall along the west edge… Rock Climbing
4-
Kačer
From the plateau (SE) side, up the wall left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Koník
Up the valley crack to the 1st ring. With aid climbing (or building a stance) from the… Rock Climbing
5
Koník
In the right part of the valley face, via the chimney to the ledge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
3
Koník
From the upland fore-rock, with aid climbing (or building a stance) into the crack in the… Rock Climbing
4-
Koník
On the SE side of the tower, via the gully to the pre-summit. With aid climbing (or… Rock Climbing
5+
Kobyla
Right part of the valley face to the 1st ring. Up the face to the right into the crack to… Rock Climbing
5
Kobyla
From the upland fore-rock, with extensive building (aid climbing) and up the face (ring)… Rock Climbing
5+
Kobyla
Rock Climbing
6
Loupežník
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Loupežník
Along the NE edge to the ring, aid climbing from the harness and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Poemex
From a standing position, along the left edge, completely without using the edge and do…
6
Loupežník
In the left part of the upper wall, up the corner crack over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Loupežník
From the upper (northern) side, up a diagonal crack to the small balcony and up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Loupežník
4 bolts Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Loupežník
To the right of the start of the Old Route, aid climb and along the edge to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hradní
From the tourist path, up the wall along the eastern edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Hradní
Up the valley (NW) wall diagonally left to the 1st and 2nd rings. Aid climbing from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Hradní
At the left corner of the valley (NE) wall, up a crack under the overhang and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Hradní
From the gorge, traverse right along the wall into the crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Hradní
To the right of the eastern edge, up the wall to the holes and traverse left to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Hradní
Up the SW crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Hradní
From the boulder at the western edge (2 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Hradní
From the 1st ring of the Drawbridge, up the wall slightly right over 2 more rings to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Halapartník
Up the NW wall to the hole (hourglass), traverse left (added ring) to the ledge, along it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Halapartník
In the middle of the NE wall via a crack and gully to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2

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