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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Kentaur
From the NW from the plateau up the wall over the recess to the bolt. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Kentaur
Up the valley (NE) wall along the edge (bolt) and by small chimney to the ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Kentaur
Through the center of the SE wall, directly under the bolt of the route "Údolní štreka" … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Kentaur
From the platform on the plateau (SW) side up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Kentaur
In the left part from the terrace of the S wall by crack and up the wall over the bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Kentaur
From the terrace through the center of the S wall over 2 bolts to the platform, via the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4
Slezská věž
Left on the SE side of the tower up the wall to the balcony, by crack and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Slezská věž
In the SE wall of the plateau lower crag along the ledge to the right, by stepping across… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Slezská věž
Up the valley wall and through the chimney to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Slezská věž
Start on the eastern lower crag, traverse across the valley wall (hourglass) into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Slezská věž
From the plateau lower crag by stepping across and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Palcát
To the left of the northern edge, up the wall along cracks (ring) over the ledge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Palcát
From the fore-rock between Palcát and Dresden Tower, aid climb to the ring. On the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Palcát
Up the SW chimney to a balcony. Left along the edge (1st ring), up the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10
Palcát
From the corner (hourglass/piton placement) right to the SW edge, along it over 2 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Palcát
In the gorge between Palcát and Větrná spára (Windy Crack), up to the SE face onto a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Palcát
From the ring, traverse left on the ledge over the northern edge to the eastern edge into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Větrná
Right part of the NE face to the ring. Aid climbing from harness, up the wall and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Větrná
Up the center of the NE face (left of Dočasná třináctka - Temporary Thirteenth) over 4… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Větrná
At the northern corner, up the chimney to the pillar and left along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Větrná
Left part of the SW face to the 1st and 2nd rings. Aid climbing and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Větrná
From the gorge at the left (western) corner, up the crack to the pillar and left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Větrná
Up the center of the SW face (2 rings) to the 3rd ring, (aid climbing from harness) up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Větrná
On the ledge above the 3rd ring, traverse right to the hourglass (piton placement/fixed… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Větrná
To the right of Skalácká pětka (Climber's Five), through a small corner and up the wall -… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Větrná
From the gorge at the right (western) corner, up the corner crack (ring) and through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Větrná
Left part of the SE face to the left edge and along it to the 1st ring. To the right, up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Větrná
To the left of Kokšova cesta (Kokša's Route), up the crack to a small platform, then a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Větrná
To the right of Stará cesta (Old Route), directly up the wall (ring) to the Pavučinka… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Větrná
Via the old route to a small platform. Along the ledge traverse right behind the chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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