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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Rozhledna
From the base, diagonally left up the SE wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the right … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Rozhledna
From the uphill side, via a chimney and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž Jeana Franka
In the NW wall by a small chimney, higher up by a crack (1st ring) to a wide ledge. In it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Věž Jeana Franka
From the "Koldovy" ledge up the wall to the ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Věž Jeana Franka
From the plateau side by a system of cracks to the ledge and along it traverse left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Manekýn
In the right part of the valley wall (SE), in the corner, by the right crack to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Hronovské věže
Via the "Valley" variation to the ledge, via a crack to the 4th ring of route "...and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Hronovské věže
Up the valley wall right of the "Valley" variation over 11 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8-/8
Hronovské věže
From the right along the west edge (left of the Valley route) over 6 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Hronovské věže
From the 2nd ring of route "For Ondráš", traverse left behind the edge (3rd ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Hronovské věže
Via the NE chimney to the ring and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
7-/7
Hronovské věže
Left of "Náhorní" by chimney to the 1st ring, via a crack (2nd and 3rd ring) and corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Hronovské věže
Right of the Valley Route, via a crack to the ledge and traverse left in it to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
4
Hronovské věže
Via the valley chimney (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Koberce
Right of the Old Route (using aid) via a crack (ring) and chimney to Hříbek. Old route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Koberce
Right of the west corner, by crack to the ring. Using aid from a harness, via cracks and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Koberce
The start is below the right part of the NE wall. With substantial aid, via a crack (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Koberce
At the SE corner, up the pyrite wall over 3 rings and right by chimney to the SW fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Koberce
Old route to the crawl hole and an overhanging crack (at the 1st ring, using aid from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Koberce
Left of the start of the Old Route, via a crack and wall left to a small ledge. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Koberce
Old route to the interior space. Above the crawl, through the crack into the recess and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Koberce
The start is on the plateau side, below the right edge of the slab. Via a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Medusy
The start is at the pillar on the NE side. Via a chimney right to the ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Medusy
The start is below the left part of the NW wall (behind the pillar). Via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Beduín
From NE via a crack to the pillar and via the Skluzavka (Slide) route to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Beduín
From the passage on the NW side of the tower via a chimney to the balcony. Via a crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Beduín
Along the northern edge of the pillar to the platform. To the right behind the edge via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Beduín
From SW from the fore-rock by building and a crack to the ring. By building from a seat… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Beduín
From the plateau side, traverse right along the ledge and up the wall to the platform. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pampeliška
From Eliška's plateau, by opposition (ring) and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2

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