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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Pulec
Via the Northeast route to the foothills and by jumping (or descending via a chimney)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pulec
From the SE, via the chimney between Pulce and Revírník. Left via the crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ryba
Start like the "Water Variant" and continue via a system of cracks to the end at the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ryba
From the valley (SW) side, via a system of cracks to the balcony. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Krtek
From the path (from the south) via a gully and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ryba
From the SW, via a small chimney over the overhang, up the crack to the balcony and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Krtek
Northwest crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rak
To the right of the Chimney route, via the middle crack to the pillar. Left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-
Rak
From the tourist path (from the west) via a short chimney and crack over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Rak
From the SE, from the block, via the chimney to the pre-summit. By the Chimney Route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Velký bratr
From the NE, from the gorge, via a crack and chimney to the ring. Via the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Rak
The ascent starts below the left part of the NW wall (from the tourist path). In the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Velký bratr
To the ring from the Garlic Route directly via the crack and then by the Garlic Route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Saská věž
On the valley side of the tower (from the small square behind the Shark) over steps to… Rock Climbing
4+
Velký bratr
From the NE, from the gorge, via the chimney between 'Big Brother' and the massif to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Saská věž
From the West, from the protruding ledge, left onto the edge and up the vegetated wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Saská věž
From the foothills on the western side, up the right crack to the pillar. By jumping to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Saská věž
From the NE, via the chimney and crack behind the large rib to the pillar. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Žralok
From the bank, via the crack (ring), higher up via the Bukanýrská route to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
Přeskok
Žralok
From the sub-summit of 'Sloní věž' (Elephant Tower), by jumping across to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Žralok
Between 'Žralok' (Shark) and 'Vzkříšení' (Resurrection), up the stemming chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Hladká
From the plateau side, up the chimney to the plateau. To the right, via the crack (aided)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Loutna
By jumping down from Hilda. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Harfeník
Follow the "Eastern Crack" route into the recess, from there directly up the crack,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Harfa
Follow the old route to the pillar. To the right, up the wall, via the hawk (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Harfa
From the uphill side, via a crack to the pillar and along it left to the valley side. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Harfa
To the right from the valley side, via a corner crack and the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Harfa
From the NE, traverse the crack over the overhang to the 1st ring (aided from a belay… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
8+/9-
Harfa
To the right of the 'Dlouhá spára' (Long Crack) route, traverse the overhanging crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
5
Balalajka
To the left of the west corner of the tower, up the wall to the ledge, traverse left on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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