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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Eliška
From the left valley edge, up the wall to the right to the 1st ring. Diagonally left up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Eliška
From the valley side, by crack (2 rings) and chimney to the plateau. Via the Old Route to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7-/7
Eliška
In the right part of the NW wall, from the block via an overhang and crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Eliška
In the left part of the valley wall, by crack and wall (2 rings) to the 1st ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Eliška
From NE, by crack diagonally left to the ledge, then traverse left into the niche and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6+/7-
Eliška
From the balcony, up the wall to the 2nd ring. To the right along the edge and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Eliška
To the left of the start of the East Route, by crack into the niche. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Eliška
To the right of the start of the East Route, via falcon-like holds to the 1st ring. Aid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Eliška
From NW, by chimney to the 1st ring, by crack to the small plateau, diagonally right up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Eliška
To the left of the start of the Old Route, by chimney, crack and wall to the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Lavice
In the left part of the plateau wall, by building from an opposition and to the right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Lavice
SE crack over the overhang (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Průchodová
In the chimney between Průchodová and Řepa (from NW), crack to the ring. To the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6-
Lavice
The ascent is in a gully on the NW side of the tower. By opposition and a winding crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
5+
Průchodová
From the NE via a corner crack and chimney over 2 rings (one added). Face to the 3rd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Skříň
From SW from the foothills via an overhang and a system of cracks (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Skříň
From the block near the eastern edge to the right via the face (1st ring) into a crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Skříň
From the 5th ring via a falconette (small, steep step/crack) and face (ring) to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Rybář
The ascent starts from the tourist path to the left of the south corner of the tower.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
6+/7-
Skříň
In the right part of the NE face via a crack over an overhang, traverse the face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Rybář
From the tourist path (before Landshut Gate) by aid climbing, crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Rybář
From the ring (by aid climbing from the belay seat) via the face to the right (2nd ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Rybář
Via the NW chimney to the fore-summit and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Rybář
From the NE via a system of chimneys to the pillar. Via a broken crack, gully and face to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5
Rybář
From the NE via the chimney to the pillar, by aid climbing and crack to the balcony with… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Sojčí kámen
From the tourist path (from NW) via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
5+
Pulec
Via the Northeast route between Pulce and Revírník. Descend to the lower part of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Pulec
Via the South Chimney to the fore-summit and Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pulec
Via Třenice to the lower part of the gorge between Pulec and Revírník. In the middle of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Ryba
In the middle of the SE wall, via a crack to the 1st ring, left via gullies and a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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