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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Mandolína
In the left part of the NE wall, via a crack and the wall near the east edge to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Mandolína
To the left of the west corner, up the wall below the overhang and right via a notch into… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
2
Balalajka
Via the SW chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Mandolína
In the middle of the NE wall, via a crack (ring), then the wall and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Mandolína
Via the SE chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Mandolína
To the left of the uphill (southern) edge, via a short chimney and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
5
Mandolína
To the right of the west corner, via artificial aid, then left up the wall to the crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Branka
From the chimney passage and the valley crack to the pillar. Via the route 'Between the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Branka
From the chimney passage and crack to the pillar. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Skřítek
From the NW (with significant aid), by a fissure to the 1st ring. To the right by a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Skřítek
In the middle of the NW face, by a crack and a chimney under the overhang to the 1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Skřítek
From the NE from the fore-rock (with aid/building up), by a crack (ring) and by the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Skřítek
Between Skřítek and Fal, by a chimney onto the pillars. Step over and by a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Skřítek
From the Canyon behind the Gothic Gate, by a chimney to a platform, then by a chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Skřítek
From the SE (from the Canyon turn-off), by a crack into an alcove, then by a crack and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Skřítek
From the NE from the fore-rock, traverse along the ledge to the right to the ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9/9+
Skřítek
From the stream (3 rings), along the left edge onto the pillars, then by an overhang into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stodola
From the chimney of the 'Walk On' route, via a wide-stemming move to the right edge (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Stodola
In the middle of the NW wall via a chimney and corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Stodola
Right of the start of the route From the Niche, via a small crack to the small balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Stodola
Rock Climbing
5+
Stodola
In the right part of the NW wall via a crack (1st ring) and chimney to the pillar. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Stodola
Rock Climbing
2
Stodola
NE via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Stodola
Via a wide chimney to the 1st ring and Saxon building to the left edge and along it (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Stodola
Left of the NW passage via a chimney to the ledge and a corner crack to the lower rock.… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Stodola
Rock Climbing
5+
Dafné
NW via a chimney and crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Dafné
SW via a crack to the ring. Traverse left via the wall and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5+
Dafné
Rock Climbing

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