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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Schovanka
From the west, by crack and chimney up to its widening. By aid climbing and wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Schovanka
From the east, through a system of chimneys into the upper part of the Pepova cesta… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Neznámá
Right of the Náhorní komín (plateau chimney) route on Boubelka, by chimney to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Trosky
Right part of the NW wall (3 rings) to the 4th ring. Traverse right by wall to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Trosky
From the north corner, traverse right along the ledge, by wall (aid climbing) and crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8/8+
Trosky
Left part of the NE wall to the 1st ring and along the eastern edge (6 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Trosky
In the right part of the NE wall, by a crack that transitions into the NW wall, to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Skarabeus
SW wall to the 1st ring, traverse left by wall to the edge and along it to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kamínek
From the plateau side (right of the eastern corner) by chimney and slanted crack to its… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kamínek
From the block near the southern edge, left by wall (ring) to the edge and along it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kamínek
NE crack to the balcony and via the Šklábulinda route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kamínek
SW crack, higher up by a corner crack to the balcony. By wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kámen
To the left of the Katapult route, by an overhanging crack, chimney and crack to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Kámen
In the ledge/cornice above the ring traverse left to the crack and via that to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kámen
From the NW via the chimney and crack over the overhang to its end. Up the wall traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Kámen
At the western edge via the chimney into the widening and traverse up the wall (ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kámen
In the right part of the SW wall via the crack to the first balcony. Identically with the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Kámen
To the right of the route 'Strong Decade' up the wall (5 rings) to the balcony and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kámen
Through the middle of the SW wall along the fissure and cracks to the ring. By mantling… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Kámen
In the middle of the upper (NE) wall along the notch/groove over the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Vodník
From the NW via the fissure to the 1st ring (by mantling/standing from the seat/harness)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Vodník
Via the Old Route to the ledge, via the crack and chimney to the spire. Via the Autumn… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vodník
From the start of the Old Route traverse left via the chimney, via the crack and chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Vodník
From the SW via the chimney to the crack, via that and the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Vodník
From the SE from the fore-rock via the crack to the 1st ring. By mantling/standing from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Vodník
The start is on the fore-rock on the upper side. From the drop-off/overhang by mantling… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Skuhral
From the lower NE edge along the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Sněhurka
Via the SW crack to the small pillar. Via the crack to the ring, by mantling/standing… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Skuhral
From the upper south side up the wall to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Skuhral
From the lower right NW edge up the wall to the ring, up the wall to the hourglass/thread… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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