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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Mumie
Left of the 'Sokolíky' route, up the wall and through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mumie
From the NE, via small overhangs/climbing steps to the right onto a small platform, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zrzek
Left of the Černý humor route via a crack and chimney to the sub-summit plateau. Via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Kačer
Left of the start of the Polední kejhání route via the edge to the ledge and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Kačer
From the plateau side via the wall right past the edge, via a crack and wall to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Kačer
From the right valley edge traverse the wall left and via a small crack under the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Zrzek
Via the East route to the plateau before the corner crack. Left via an overhang and wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Zrzek
From NE via a structured chimney to the plateau, corner crack to the pillar and wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7-/7
Zrzek
Left of the East route via the chimney to a small pillar. Wall left behind the edge, wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Zrzek
Left of the southern edge via the wall, higher via a small crack under the overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
5
Faraon
From the corner on the SW side of the tower via an overhanging chimney into the chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Faraon
From the block between Faraon and Devil's Bridge via an overflow and crack to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Faraon
From the northern edge via a crack into the recess and onto the balcony. Via the friable… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Faraon
The start is left of the Žluté pisky route. Wall right, crack and left wall to 1st and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Faraon
At the east corner via the chimney to the block and via the wall to the 1st ring. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Faraon
From NE via the chimney into the gorge between Faraon and Zrzek. Via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Faraon
From the fore-rock between Faraon and Zrzek via the left part of the wall to the balcony … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Faraon
From the NE via the corner crack to the pillar. Along the ledge to the right, via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Faraon
Through the chimney and over the overhang via a crack directly into the crack of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Alkron
From Devil's Bridge by jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Rákosníček
By Western crack (ring) and from left by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Rákosníček
By NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Rákosníček
To the right of the northern edge by crack to the 1st ring. To the left by small pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9/9+
Zub
Right of the "Hubařská stezka" (Mushroom Picker's Path), up the wall along the cracks (6… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Zub
In the middle of the SE wall, via the overhanging crack to the 1st ring, (building up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zub
In the southern edge, via the crack to the 1st and 2nd rings. Building up from the seat… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Korál
Between Ostrovní and Korál, descend through the chimney to the pillar. To the right of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Korál
From the saddle between Korál and Ostrovní (from NW), via a crack into a hole and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Korál
From the end of the gully, right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Korál
From the S edge of the SE wall, via a crack (ring), then a narrow chimney/groove (… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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