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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Korál
From the fore-rock on the SE side of the tower, descend two meters via the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Korál
From the SE via a shallow gully, left up the wall to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Korál
At the north edge, straddling Ostrovní and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Korál
Via the left NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Korál
Via the right NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6+/7-
Bukanýr
Through the chimney in the NW wall to the pillar. Traverse and wall along the rib to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bukanýr
From Rohatá (on the NE side of the tower) by descending right between the pillar of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bukanýr
By chimney of the old route about 8m to the ring. Right into the gully, through it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Padací most
From the valley side by crack and right by ledge to the 1st ring, by sokolíky (small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Cimbuří
In the chimney between Cimbuří and Bukanýr by crack to the small tower. By stepping over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Cimbuří
From NE by chimney between Cimbuří and Bukanýr diagonally left to a detached block. By… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Cimbuří
From NE by wider crack to the lower summit. Then by the route „Zbloudilá“ to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Cimbuří
In the valley (NW) face by crack (ring) and chimney to a detached block. Then by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Babulík
Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Babulík
Left on the plateau side of the tower by small cracks and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Babulík
By chimney and along the edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čertova tchyně
From SW, chimney to the pillar. With extensive building up to the ring. Building up from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6-
Čertík
From SW, from the through chimney (between Devil and Hell), by stemming to the ring. Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Čertík
To the right of the "Northwest Crack" route, an overhanging crack and rounded edge (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Čertík
SE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6
Čertík
In the middle of the east face (5m left of the start of the Devil's Hoof route) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čertík
From the 2nd ring of the "Devil's Hoof" route, directly up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Čertík
On the left, in the east face, a double crack leads to a overgrown balcony, and on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Čertík
At the north corner of the tower, by a crack and small dihedral to the 1st ring. By a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Čertík
Up the wall and crack to the ring. Up the wide crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Lucius
Along the left part of the NW wall along the small crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Pašerák
From Ještěrčí Square, through the chimney to the SE summit. Via the Valley Chimney route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pašerák
In the valley (NE) wall, by a crack, a fissure (ring), and a wall to the pillar towards… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pašerák
Through the chimney between Pašerák and Ještěrka (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pašerák
Rock Climbing

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