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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Trutnovská
From the NE up the wall along the knobs, up the small dihedral to the ring and (building… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Trutnovská
The start is to the left of the east corner of the tower. Up the chimney and crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Trutnovská
Along the right plateau edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Dingo
Up the SW conical chimney to the ring. Up the crack to the false summit and then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8-/8
Dingo
5m right of "Psí" up the crack and fissure to the 1st ring. Step left into "Psí", follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Dingo
From the plateau side, up the chimney (2 rings), higher along the right edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Dingo
To the left of the "Psí" route, up the small dihedral notches and the left edge (3 rings)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Trosečník
From the SW, up the small chimney to the small pillar and then up the wall to another… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Trosečník
To the left of the 'Samá voda' route, up the chimney and crack to the small pillar. Step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Trosečník
From the sub-summit balcony of Silwer, jump to the block, build up and along the edge to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Trosečník
In the left part of the NE wall, up the crack and chimney to the 1st ring. Up the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Trosečník
From the corner on the SW side of the tower, up the chimney to the pillar. Build up to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Mysliveček
On the valley (NW) side of the tower, via a crack to the pillar and a corner crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mysliveček
From the fore-rock on the SW, via steps of blocks to the summit wall. By strenuous… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mysliveček
Up the plateau corner for 2m, traverse right into the crack and then up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Mysliveček
From the plateau side, via a corner crack over the overhang to the balcony. Via the route… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
Přeskok
Sekáček
From the Kladivoun pillar, jump across to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Sekáček
From the Kladivoun fore-rock, briefly descend the right chimney into the Sekáček route,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sekáček
From the plateau (NW) side, via a chimney and crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Jumbo
From the plateau side, via steps and a narrow ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ostrov bláznů
From the NW edge, traverse in ledges right into a crack, by it to the S pre-summit, left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vrak
On the plateau side of the tower, by building and wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Vrak
In the right part of the NW wall, by a small chimney (sokolík) in the recess to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ostrovní hora
From the SW by a crack with an overhanging entry to the large hour (clock) and to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall +1
6
Mořská panna
Below the center of the NW wall via extensive aid climbing, small chimney/groove (sokolík… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Mořská panna
From the niche traverse through narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Mořská panna
From the SW over steps to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mořská panna
Right in the NW wall via a small chimney/groove (sokolík) and crack (ring) to the pre… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Mořská panna
Via the left crack in the NW wall (ring) into the niche below the summit. Left via wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Albatros
Left of the Beach Route via a system of cracks (ring) and chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1

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