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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Káča
Along the right upper edge (start from left) over 2 rings to the ledge. Along the laid… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Káča
To the right of c. "Window" through a crack (circle) and chimney to the pillar, "Bálova"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Káča
From the SW through the chimney and window to the opposite side of the tower. Through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Káča
Right NE crack, chimney and right into a deep gully to the clock. Through the gully and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Káča
As original to the window and further through a crack (circle) to the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Hříbek
Left of the road, the Kursk Arc through a crack (circle), chimney and traverse in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Hříbek
From the valley side, by corner crack under the arched overhang, in it by crack right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Hříbek
From the fore-buttress on the SE side of the tower, via overhang and chimney to the block… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Hříbek
From the intermediate tower between Hříbek and Trosečník, up the west wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Pod Šajtavou
From the overhanging edge by wall left below the "book" feature, upwards and via the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Overhang
6+
Pod Šajtavou
Along the right overhanging edge to the ledge below the overhang. Along the ledge… Traditional Climbing Overhang
3
Pod Šajtavou
By chimney (corner) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6-
Pod Šajtavou
Slab right of the right edge (or left of the Dividing Chimney) to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Laid wall
6+/7-
Pod Šajtavou
Center of the left wall, higher up from the right around the overhang and directly to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Vertical wall
5
Pod Šajtavou
Right of the "South Edge" by wall into the gully and from the left around the overhang to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Laid wall
4
Pod Šajtavou
Along the left (S) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Laid wall
Přeskok
Brusinkový král
UIAA cl. Jump 2. From the edge by a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Brusinkový král
UIAA cl. 4. Up the upper wall. Rock Climbing
3
Ježek
UIAA cl. 3. By building up to the "nose" and to the right by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Aramis
UIAA cl. 2. SW wall. Rock Climbing
4
Aramis
UIAA cl. 4. From the valley side, by crack to the ledge, then down through it, by crack… Rock Climbing
4
Athos
UIAA class 4 From the SW through the chimney to the pre-summit plateau, then up the wall. Rock Climbing
6+
Athos
UIAA class 6+ Right on the NW along the crack over the overhang and right along the edge … Rock Climbing
4
Upír
UIAA class 4 From the SW through the chimney and up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Upír
UIAA class 5 From the North, up cracks to the plateau, then up the wall. Rock Climbing
4
Upír
UIAA class 4 NE crack to the saddle and right crack to the plateau. Route no. 1 to the… Rock Climbing
4
Sněhulák
UIAA class 4 North crack and wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Tlustá Berta
UIAA Grade 4. From the upper side via a gully to a ledge, along it to the right and along… Rock Climbing
4
Kohout
UIAA Grade 4. In the left part of the NE wall via a crack to a platform. Continue via its… Rock Climbing
3
Kladivo
UIAA Grade 3. From the valley side over blocks to the needle. Via an overhang, via a… Rock Climbing

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