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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4
Atol Mururoa
Via corner crack in the left part of the S face of the massif, further via narrow chimney… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Rukavice
From the block on the right, on the plateau side of the tower, via waterfall/overflow and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Rukavice
Via the Siamese Twins route to the saddle and traverse right along the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Rukavice
From the ring via crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Rukavice
Via the right NE crack over the overhang (ring), a step right and another crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +4
6
Rukavice
Via chimney in the NE wall under the overhang and crack along the "twins" to the saddle.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Rukavice
From the plateau gorge, by the left crack in the SW wall, higher up by a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +3
6+/7-
Rukavice
From the inner space via chimney and crack in the NW wall to the 1st ring. Via wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Rumburak
From the start of the Descent (route), by a very narrow chimney to the pre-summit and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
Přeskok
Dešťová víla
From the massif, a traverse/step across to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Dešťová víla
On the plateau side, by stemming/bridging and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pirát
In the right part of the NW wall (from the Řeřichový potok) via a crack to the end and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pirát
Left of the Route of Virgins, crack over overhang (ring) to the SW summit. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Posed
Through cracks (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Pirát
Upper crack over ring to the pre-summit. Overhang to the 2nd ring and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7-/7
Pirát
Start from NE via crack (1st ring) to 2nd ring, wall over hours into a horizontal notch … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Pirát
From the upper side through the chimney to the clock and traverse right along the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Pirát
From NW through the chimney to the lower SW summit. Overhang (added ring) and notch up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Očistec
Crack to the left of the route Paradise in sight (ring). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2
Očistec
Upper small chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
6+/7-
Očistec
From N, small chimney, traverse the slab (ring) below the crack. Through the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
3
Lázně Běloves
From the upper side by stepping over from the block and along the ledge n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Lázně Běloves
In the valley NE wall, crack to the small balcony. Wall higher right (ring) to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Kriminálník
North edge to the summit (from the plateau). Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2
Kriminálník
In the corner on the NE wall of the tower, via a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Kriminálník
From the blocks on the NW side of the tower, via a narrow crack (1st ring) and a falcon… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
3
Kriminálník
Left of the Old Route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Káča
Middle NE crack (1st ring) into the chimney. From the opposition (by construction) up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Káča
To the left of the Second Route, up the wall and crack into a deep gully to the clock.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Káča
Left NE crack and chimney to the 1st ring. Crack to the pillar, by construction and crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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