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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Pašerák
Left of the 'Údolní komín' (Valley Chimney) route via a crack in the corner to the pillar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pašerák
Below the Ještěrka plateau via the NE chimney to the ring under the roof, (using aid) via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Pašerák
Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ještěrka
Left of the north edge via a chimney between Ještěrka and the pillar, higher up via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Ještěrka
From the highest point of the Ještěrka plateau via a chimney between Ještěrka and Zefír… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ještěrka
Right of the 'Přes odštěp' route via a small crack, higher up via a crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Rohatá
From the terrain terrace on the SW side of the tower via a chimney to the SE balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Rohatá
Via the north chimney to the fore-rock and along the east edge (3 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Rohatá
To the SE balcony via a chimney from the opposite side. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rohatá
Via the left valley (NE) crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Útes
Right of the 'Standův komín' (Standa's Chimney) route via a crack to the pillar and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Útes
In the left part of the NE face via a chimney to the pillar and then via the face to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Útes
In the middle of the NE face from a block via a crack to a small balcony. Via a corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Robinson
From the block on the valley (NW) side, via a small crack under the overhang to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Robinson
Up the east corner crack to the 1st ring (aid climbing from a sling) and the overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Robinson
Via the "Pátka's Route" left via a crack and wall (6 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Pekelník
From the saddle, descend a few meters and initially along the north edge, later up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4
Pekelník
From SW from the upper ramp between Pekelník and Basilisk, by building/aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Tulák
From the SE, up the chimney and crack over the overhang to the 1st ring. Up a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Tulák
From the 2nd ring along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Tulák
From the NE, up the corner to the balcony and left up a shallow crack to another balcony… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Tulák
From the NE, up the chimney to the block. Up a double crack and chimney to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tulák
From the small platform, right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Tulák
In the left part of the NW wall, up a crack to the ring, left up the wall and past a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Tulák
From the block on the plateau side, a jump into the gully, along it to the small platform… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tulák
From the plateau side, up the chimney to the right onto the platform. Up the chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Démon
From the SW, up a diagonal crack (2 rings) to the pillar, building (up/aid) to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Poskok
At the SE corner, two meters up a chimney. Up the wall, past a small rock outcrop, and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
1
Poskok
From the chimney from the south, up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Poskok
Along the rounded eastern edge and right wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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