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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Dafné
Left of the North Route via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
5+
Dafné
SW via a crack to the ring. Traverse left via the wall and via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4
Učedník
Via the plateau (NE) wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Papoušek
From SE via a system of cracks and a small pedestal left to the ring. Building from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7-/7
Papoušek
In the left part of the SE wall via a crack to the ring. Building from the seat and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Papoušek
From SW via a crack to the 1st ring, building from the seat and wall diagonally right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Papoušek
From the ring right via a crack to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Papoušek
From NW via a crack to the ring and left via the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
6
Labyrint
In the right part of the SW wall via a crack and pedestals to the ring. Via the wall into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Labyrint
In the middle of the upper wall, higher up via crack over the overhang and via crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
3
Labyrint
To the left of the path Under the Salted Wall, by a corner crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Labyrint
At the left plateau edge via a crack to the balcony. Step left, wall and pedestal to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Labyrint
To the right of the eastern edge, via a small crack (ring) and to the left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Labyrint
From the upper side, up the wall diagonally right to the small plateau. Aid climbing,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Labyrint
In the NW wall, traverse right along the wall under the overhang to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Labyrint
Up the NE crack (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Labyrint
At the left valley edge, up the wall, via an inclined notch and crack (1st ring) into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Labyrint
Start via the route "Head Full of Sand", from the traverse over the overhang via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Labyrint
The ascent starts in the niche in the right part of the valley wall. Up the left crack to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Oltář
From the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Oltář
From the SW, via the chimney to the block. Up the wall left beyond the edge, via a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Oltář
To the left of the southern corner, from the balcony traverse left to the ledge (1st ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Oltář
Up the upper chimneys to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Oltář
From the block on the upper side, via the chimney to the small (southern) pillar. Along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Šlechtic
Up the valley wall and edge (5 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Uprchlík
Along the northern edge of the east pillar, higher up left via a crack to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Uprchlík
In the left part of the NW wall of the east pillar via the wall to the 1st ring. Via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Uprchlík
In the left part of the north pillar via the wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Uprchlík
To the right of the path. Over the mountains for a better, winding ascent via the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Uprchlík
From the NE via a system of chimneys to the pillar and via the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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