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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Větrná
To the left of Stará cesta (Old Route), up the wall to a small platform. To the left, a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Větrná
In the left part of the NE wall via a crack onto a small platform and through inner… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Větrná
To the right of Stará cesta (Old Route), directly up the wall (ring) to the Pavučinka… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Větrná
Up the center of the valley wall via a thread/hourglass and 5 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Větrná
From the valley along the East edge (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Větrná
From the terrace up the wall (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kočkolit
Up the West face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Kočkolit
Rock Climbing
2+
Žába (Žebrák)
Start on the upper side. Traverse along the ledge into the valley wall, from there over… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Žába (Žebrák)
In the left part of the valley wall via a corner to the ring and further up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Trutův Drak
Start via a crack in the valley wall, past two rings on the wall and through a crack in… Rock Climbing
5+
Žába (Žebrák)
Ascend the sloping bumpy wall over a large and small overhang to the ring, from there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Trutův Drak
Along the right upper crack directly to the pine tree. (!! solo !!) Rock Climbing
4+
Žába (Žebrák)
Start to the right of the valley wall. Along the corner crack to its end, from there… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Trutův Drak
Via the left plateau crack to the pine tree, from there climbing with friction to the… Rock Climbing
5
Trutův Drak
Along the right upper side around the piton and connecting to Údolní (Valley Route) to… Rock Climbing
5
Trutův Drak
Along the right upper edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Lotrando
Via the valley crack and wall (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Lotrando
From the path from Figura, traverse in the ledge of the Zamilovaná wall to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Šašek
Left of the valley (northern) edge, via a crack over an overhang to a ledge, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Teoretik
From the uphill side, traverse right along the catwalk and then along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Teoretik
In the right part of the SW wall via a crack to its end, then along the wall to the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Šašek
Along the ledge in the SW wall, traverse left to the ring. Up the wall near the southern… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Šašek
From the ledge, up the center of the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Šašek
From the ledge, up the right part of the SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rozhledna
From the southern corner of the base, up the wall to the left, via a small crack and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rozhledna
Up the valley (SW) wall to the balcony. Left up the wall to the western edge and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rozhledna
Up the uphill (NE) wall to the 1st ring and right along the wall to the small balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Rozhledna
Up the left part of the NE wall to the ring, then left via a crack and chimney to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Rozhledna
From the base, diagonally left up the SE wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the right … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1

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