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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Věž Otty Černého
In the gorge between Otto Černý Tower and Skopec via a squeeze chimney and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
11
Věž Otty Černého
Through the center of the wall (starting at the right edge) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Věž Otty Černého
Along the valley edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Ovce
Along the 'Dovolenková cesta' (Holiday Route) to a ledge and right up the wall (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Ovce
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack to the ring. Traverse the wall left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
5
Ovce
The ascent starts near the north edge. Up the wall under the overhang and traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Večernice
Along the Old Route to Skopce up to a large platform. Up the wall along the southern edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Skopec
From Otto Černý Tower via a double crack to the ring, up the wall to the terrace and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Večernice
In the middle of the north wall via a crack to its end and right to the large clock. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Večernice
From the crag on the valley (NE) side in the left part of the wall via a crack to its end… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Skopec
Up the wall to a platform, along it left to a crack and via that to the balcony. Via the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6+/7-
Skopec
In the left part of the SW wall via a crack (from the window, part of the Angel Wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Skopec
The ascent starts in the inner space. Right into the window and via a crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Skopec
Along the Old Route to a large platform. Left up the wall over the overhang to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6
Skopec
In the right part of the SW wall along the gash and right up the wall to the 1st ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Pralinka
From the upland crag traverse along the ramp left and via the chimney to the false summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pralinka
Up the Old Route chimney for two meters, right traverse along the ledge to the pine tree… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Skopec
From SE via the chimney to a large platform with pines and then traversing through the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4
Pralinka
Up the valley chimney (birch) to the false summit. Up the wall left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Panenka
In the left part of the upland wall, traverse through a window to the opposite side, via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Panenka
Left of the upland edge via a wide crack to a ledge, with prominent holes traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kapucín
From the gorge via the chimney between Kapucín and the edge to the platform in the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kapucín
Middle of the valley wall to the 1st ring. Up the wall right into a crack, through it and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Hrošík
In the upper wall via cracks and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kapucín
From the upper inner space via the chimney to a small ledge in the wall of the outer rock… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Tučňák
From the east via a corner crack to the pre-summit and by the West Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tučňák
From the west via a conical chimney to the pre-summit. By step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Amfora
From the east, out of the passable chimney by stemming onto a block. By building/aid to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Trio
In the corner on the plateau side via a short chimney to the crack, then along it to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hladká
From the plateau fore-rock via a crack, traverse right along the wall and via a chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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