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Climbing at East Bohemia

14094 routes
12 areas
1–11 grades

East Bohemia is one of the most important sandstone climbing regions in Central Europe. Its centre is the Broumov region on the Polish border: the Adršpach-Teplice Rocks – a national nature reserve protected since 1933, covering 17.12 km² and part of the Broumovsko PLA since 1991 – with more than 1,800 towers up to about 90 m high, the table mountain of Ostaš with a rock labyrinth on its summit plateau, Křížový vrch near Zdoňov, and the Broumov Walls topped by Božanovský Špičák (773 m), quieter and free of charge. Outside Broumovsko there is climbing in the Giant Mountains (the Labský důl icefall), the Orlické Mountains, around Trutnov, in the Škrovád quarries and near Hořice.

Adršpach is famous for cracks, Teplice for face climbing. Strict sandstone rules apply: no chalk or metal protection, only textile slings, knots and "UFOs" between sparse rings, and climbing only on dry rock and in daylight. In Adršpach and Teplice sectors open from 1 May or only from 1 July until the end of the year, with closures for nesting birds; entry is free with a Czech Mountaineering Association card. Křížový vrch and Škrovád are among the places recommended for a first taste of East Bohemian sandstone.

Part of Czech Republic, East Bohemia has 14094 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 12 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Vertical wall.

Rules

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8-/8
Sarka Farka
Through cracks in the valley wall (2 rings), traverse left in the ledge and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sarka Farka
To the left of the plateau (southern) edge, via the rib to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Sarka Farka
Up the plateau chimney to the ring and along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Sarka Farka
In the middle of the SW wall, a narrow crack to the ledge. Traverse left into the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vepřík
To the left of the Hubert's Ride route, up the face along two fissures into a hollow.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vepřík
To the left of the corner of the Approval Route via an articulated crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Vepřík
In the NE face to the left of the Smoked Rib route via fissures to a balcony, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vepřík
In the prominent corner on the NE face via a corner crack (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Vepřík
From the NE via the highest-lying corner (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Vepřík
Up the face along the southern edge (ring) into a crack and up that to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Vepřík
Up the face along the eastern edge (3 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Káča Máša
From the east via the lower face (bolt, hourglass) and overhang (bolt) to the edge, along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7/7+
Kožich
Up the wall along the prominent edge to the right of 'Káči Máši' (5 rings) to the top … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kožich
Up the wall along the left edge of the pillar (1st ring) to the ledge. Up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Kožich
Up the wall along the right edge of the pillar (1st ring) to the ledge. Up the wall (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9
Ondatra
Up the narrow SE wall (3 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Varhany
In the right part of the NE wall, through a double crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Varhany
Through the left crack in the NE wall (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Varhany
Up the wall along the valley edge (4 rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Rozhledna
From W by stepping over to the edge and around the pine tree over the blocks n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Rozhledna
From NE by chimneying to the block, stepping over into the chimney and left (hourglass) n… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Sídlo
Along the valley edge via a crack and a pinnacle to the ring. To the left, up the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7
Popravčí kámen
From S, from the fore-rock by building/scaffolding and up the wall (ring) n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Sídlo
Rock Climbing
5+
Nalezenec
Path No. 2 to the birch tree and right along the crack n. t. Rock Climbing
5
Nalezenec
Right of route no. 1, up the crack to the birch tree and left along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Nalezenec
In the left part of the NE wall, by a crack n. t. Rock Climbing
3
Myšák
Up the prominent chimney dividing the tower to the fore-summit, over the overhang and up… Rock Climbing
4
Pirát
UIAA cl. 4Up the exposed wall to the base ledge. Up the corner SW crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Chobotnice
UIAA cl. 5Up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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