L'Ostroh Východního rohu, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 170 voies sur 16 tours et parois – parmi les plus grandes, Hřebenová jehla, Ústecká věž, Východní roh, Porcelánová stěna, Rybářská bašta et Citadela. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur murs verticaux de grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10-/10.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 08. Ostroh Východního rohu possède 173 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10-/10. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Hřebenová jehla Ústecká věž Východní roh Porcelánová stěna Rybářská bašta Citadela Barokní stěna Žába Tajemníkovy kouty Kyklop Česko x Sasko Orient Ratejna Podsvinče Hulicí salonek Železný Zekon
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
3
Pod slaněním
On the left in the S wall, upwards to the right and along a rib to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
3
Neuznaná
To the left of the "Under the Rappel" route, through a short wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Pulec
To the left of the "Old Route", through a short crack to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Střízlivá
On the left in the N wall, through a crack running diagonally left to a ledge in the E… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Žabí serenáda
On the right on the north side, through an overhanging wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Stará cesta
Through a short crack in the plateau (NW) edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
3
Dája
Through the wall along the right downhill edge to a ledge and then along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6-
Žabí hlen
On the right in the S wall, over an ear (rock feature) to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun Vertical wall
6+/7-
Růženec
Through the center of the pillar over 2 K (knots/chocks) into a gully and thus to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Válka s Němci
To the right of the Krávovina route, through the SW wall and the left edge to the 1st BH … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Krávovina
In the right part of the wall over 2 K (knots/chocks) and from the left through a gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Kozlovina
In the left part of the wall, through a corner, higher up a crack directly to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Best off
In the right part of the valley wall, past 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Bono
Left of the "The Edge" route, up the east wall past 5 bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Největší Čech
Approximately in the middle of the valley wall, from the block up the wall slightly right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Celková tělesná nedostačivost
Along the S edge past 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Magnetický chlapec
Along the E edge past 2 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Létající Čestmír
In the right part of the massif, up the corner to a balcony (sling) and up the wall past… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Poletíme ?
In the right part of the massif (right of the "Flying Česmír" route) up the corner and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Rybí šupiny
Between the routes "Létající Čestmír" (Flying Čestmír) and "Rybí prsty" (Fish Fingers)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Dynamit Fishing
Right of the "Eels Don't Migrate" route, from the base up the wall past 3 bolts to its… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Vorvanej vorvaň
Start in the right part with a distinctive small falcon over a bolt to a ledge. Then up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Rybí prsty
Along the right edge past 5 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Rybenka
From the 3rd bolt of the Rybí prsty (Fish Fingers) route, left up the wall past 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Krautaal
Same as "Eels Don't Migrate" to the 2nd ring from the "Vorvanej vorvan" route and to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Úhoři netáhnou
Start from the base (bolt) and up the wall past 2 rings to the 2nd ring of the route … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Jak jsem potkal ryby
Up the route "When Eels Migrate" and traverse left to the 1st ring. Up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2