L'Ostroh Východního rohu, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 170 voies sur 16 tours et parois – parmi les plus grandes, Hřebenová jehla, Ústecká věž, Východní roh, Porcelánová stěna, Rybářská bašta et Citadela. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur murs verticaux de grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10-/10.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 08. Ostroh Východního rohu possède 173 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10-/10. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Hřebenová jehla Ústecká věž Východní roh Porcelánová stěna Rybářská bašta Citadela Barokní stěna Žába Tajemníkovy kouty Kyklop Česko x Sasko Orient Ratejna Podsvinče Hulicí salonek Železný Zekon
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7/7+
Jak jsem potkal ryby
Up the route "When Eels Migrate" and traverse left to the 1st ring. Up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Zaoceánské bublinky
Right of the chimney between Eastern Corner and Fisherman's Bastion, up the corner crack… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Inside job
From Hulící's salon along the southern edge over 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Chimney n. v Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Pěnová varianta
Like Zaoceánské bublinky (Transoceanic Bubbles) to the 7th bolt, then straight up past 8… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Puk a vec
From the 1st ring of "Corrida", up the wall past 6 bolts to a large balcony. Freely to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Ave my
Start with a crack through the overhang, then up the wall and edge past 8 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Přímá hokejka
Up the crack in the S wall almost to its end, traverse left and up the "Hockey Sticks"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6-
Hokejka
From the SE up the wall, or from the N into the gully on the S side of the tower, through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Corrida
From the left to the SE edge and along it to the 1st K. Diagonally to the right behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
8-/8
Cesta do budoucnosti
Downhill edge over 7 BH to the 3rd K of the “Child of Time” route, along it over the 4th… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
10-/10
Zpřítomnění
From the 10th BH of the "Path to the Future" route, further along the wall over 2 new BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Přímá Corrida
From the large balcony on the right, an overhanging edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6
Hurá na západ
Right parts of the downhill wall (approx. 6 m from the right of the corner), wall and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Dětský den
To the right of the start of the “Child of Time” route, wall over 3 BH to the 2nd K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Dítě času
By a large corner in the downhill wall to the 1st K, over the overhang and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Velký třesk
S wall to a small crack and along it to a ledge. Traverse left to the 2nd K of the “Child… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Průduškový komín - Varianta
From K diagonally to the right, chimneying to a small balcony and inside the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Eldorádo
S wall along the right edge, then diagonally left to the 1st K. Breakaways to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Průduškový komín
From the NW, crack into the chimney between the tower and the massif. Chimneying to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
Milky Way
By the “Eldorado” route to the 1st K. Left on the wall over 5 BH to the notch to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Ganja
Left of the large overhang to the 1st BH and corner to a balcony. Wall over 2 BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Vodní dýmka
Start like “Ganja” and wall over BH to the left onto the edge. Along it over 3 BH to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2
Stará cesta
Along the edge of the massif, descend to the saddle, step onto the tower and up the steps… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8-/8
Krátký kouř
Exit from the upper terrace. From the foreshore, from the right edge diagonally left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6
Trhlina v severní zdi
By a crack in the S wall diagonally to the right up to the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Pětiminutovka
Right in the S wall by crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Šepot trávy
Just to the right of the corner between Kyklop and Hulicí's lounge, crack and wall over 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Vyklop
From the S terrace, corner or chimney to the foreshore and, like the Pětiminutovka route,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Zbyňkův rest
Downhill wall (BH, K, BH) and further over 7 K to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3