L'Ostroh Východního rohu, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 170 voies sur 16 tours et parois – parmi les plus grandes, Hřebenová jehla, Ústecká věž, Východní roh, Porcelánová stěna, Rybářská bašta et Citadela. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur murs verticaux de grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10-/10.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 08. Ostroh Východního rohu possède 173 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10-/10. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Hřebenová jehla Ústecká věž Východní roh Porcelánová stěna Rybářská bašta Citadela Barokní stěna Žába Tajemníkovy kouty Kyklop Česko x Sasko Orient Ratejna Podsvinče Hulicí salonek Železný Zekon
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7+/8-
Zbyňkův rest
Downhill wall (BH, K, BH) and further over 7 K to rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Mit dem Zweiten sieht man besser
From the 2nd BH of the Zbyňkův rest route, right on the wall, then edge over 10 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Varianta Na vlásku ( Šedý zákal)
Downhill edge over 1 BH to the 1st BH in the route Grey Cataract, and rappel from there. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Přimhouření oka
From the corner by the Ústí tower, a notch and wall past 4 BH to an overhang. To the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Náhorní hrana
Via the upper edge, at the top to the right of it to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Malá rošáda
Start to the left of the "Left Valley Chimney". Up the wall to a belay station in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7/7+
Šach - Mat
To the right of the "Left Valley Chimney", up the wall via 6 K to a ledge and to the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2+
Levý údolní komín
In the left part of the valley wall, up the chimney into the gully, through to the upper… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
8/8+
Platt in drei Zügen
Via the Šach –Mat route to the 6th K and further directly and up the overhanging wall via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Velká rošáda
Up the blunt edge between the "Valley Route" and the "Šach Mat" route to the 1st K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Beta Blocker
To the left of Biorytm, up the wall via 9 BH to the last BH of Biorytm and to the K of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Údolní cesta
Up the crack in the middle of the valley wall via 2 K almost to the end. Traverse left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9+
La Vida Loca
Like the Velká rošáda route above the 3rd K. Up the wall and the overhang, first slightly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Postrach Labáku
From the 2nd K of the "Valley Route", up the crack to where it disappears under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8-/8
Biorytmus
To the left of the valley edge, up the wall via 2 BH to a balcony (K). To the left of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Arytmie
From the "Biorytm" balcony, up the middle of the wall via a K and 4 BH. Then diagonally… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Apollo
Up the crack in the north face via 1 K to a ledge and traverse left behind the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Sojuz - přímá varianta
Via the Sojuz route to the 2nd K of the Apollo route, and via that further under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7-/7
Sojuz
To the left of the crack of the "Apollo" route, climb the wall via a BH to a balcony.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
2
Stará cesta
In the NW face, to the left of the upper edge, climb the small wall to a ledge, to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Láska, život a jiné katastrofy
To the left of the start of the Left Valley Chimney route on Ústecká věž, at the edge … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
3
Stará cesta - Varianta
From the ledge, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Severozápadní cesta
From the start of the "Stará cesta" route, descend to the left to the edge of the massif… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Tlamolep
From the SE, slightly via the corner to the pillar and to the right onto the terrace … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Kýsova spára
Via the "Left Valley Chimney" to the Ústecká věž almost to the end, then up the crack in… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Route in shadow +2
8+/9-
Komplex méněcennosti
From the terrace to the left of the "Tlamolep" route, climb the wall over 6 BH to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Platonicus a Platonie
Start via the "Pájkův nedodělek" route, then further right up the wall from the chimney… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Pájkův nedodělek
To the right of the route "Božena ložená", climb the small wall over 3 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Božena Ložená
From the right onto the edge and along it (3 BH) to the Náblížka rappel station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3