L'Ostroh Východního rohu, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 170 voies sur 16 tours et parois – parmi les plus grandes, Hřebenová jehla, Ústecká věž, Východní roh, Porcelánová stěna, Rybářská bašta et Citadela. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur murs verticaux de grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10-/10.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 08. Ostroh Východního rohu possède 173 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10-/10. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Hřebenová jehla Ústecká věž Východní roh Porcelánová stěna Rybářská bašta Citadela Barokní stěna Žába Tajemníkovy kouty Kyklop Česko x Sasko Orient Ratejna Podsvinče Hulicí salonek Železný Zekon
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
5
Osol sobě
From the left (SE) side, up the wall and the crack to the fore-rock (belay). Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Zpupnost rozumu
Up the sharp edge (BH) to the fore-rock (top-out). Along the edge over 2 BH to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Namáhej závity
At the right (N) edge, up the chimney to the ledge and along the edge over 4 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Co máš v tý nádobě?
In the NE wall, a prominent diagonal chimney and left to the ledge to the BH. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Tenet
To the right of the "Jo zase přišly složenky" route, up the corner and the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Jo zase přišly složenky
In the left part of the massif, a crack over a small overhang (sling) and further over 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Vokuhila-Lokna
Like Vokuhila to the 2nd BH. From there, slightly left up the wall to the ledge to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Whistleblower
In the left part of the SE wall, along the edge and higher up, over an overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Ispektor Gadget - krátká varianta
From the 3rd BH, overhanging wall diagonally to the right to the belay. BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Vokuhila
To the left of the Lokna route, overhanging wall (1st BH) to the 2nd BH. Traverse left,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Lokna
In the right part of the SW wall, up the wall (1st BH) to the corner (2nd BH). Over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Komisař Faber
From the 1st BH of the Inspector Gadget route, traverse left through 5 BHs to the belay.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8/8+
Inspektor Gadget
Left (NW) overhanging wall of the rock gate over 4 BH and left with a notch (5th BH) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
2+
Levá trhlina
From the plateau side, in the left part, through a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pravý zářez
In the plateau wall, in the right part, through a corner to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Děrovačka
To the right of the "Left Crack" route, through a small wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Střední náhorní
From the plateau side, through the center of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Stará cesta
To the right of the "Middle Upper" route, through a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Přepad - Varianta
Via the route "Jump" to a large platform. Below it, from a small balcony, jump to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Přepad - Varianta přepadu
Via the route "Jump" to a large platform. Down the edge of the massif to the pulpit. Fall… Rock Climbing
?
Skok
From the massif descend and up the corner crack to a large platform. Descend the chimney,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Horní skok
Via the route "Jump" to a large platform and from there jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Přepad
Via the route "Jump" to a large platform, descend to the center of the upland wall and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1