L'Ostroh Východního rohu, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 170 voies sur 16 tours et parois – parmi les plus grandes, Hřebenová jehla, Ústecká věž, Východní roh, Porcelánová stěna, Rybářská bašta et Citadela. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur murs verticaux de grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10-/10.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 08. Ostroh Východního rohu possède 173 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10-/10. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Hřebenová jehla Ústecká věž Východní roh Porcelánová stěna Rybářská bašta Citadela Barokní stěna Žába Tajemníkovy kouty Kyklop Česko x Sasko Orient Ratejna Podsvinče Hulicí salonek Železný Zekon
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
7/7+
Nástupová varianta (Kámen mudrců)
To the right of the corner between Barokní stěna (Baroque Wall) and Citadel up the middle… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Zkratka (Paralelní plán)
Together with the Náblíže route to the 2nd bolt hanger and diagonally left (2 bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Nábližka
To the right of the SE pillar, climb the wall (2 BH) and slightly to the right (3rd BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Kámen mudrců
From the SE slightly up the corner onto the pillar. Up the middle of the wall via 7 bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Pozitivní síly
To the left of the “Kámen mudrců” (Philosopher's Stone) route, up the corner to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Paralelní plán
From the starting block of the "Kámen mudrců" (Philosopher's Stone) route to the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7/7+
Bílá vdova
In the V wall to the left of the corner via a crack and 3 bolt hangers to the rappel bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Dekadance
To the left of the Růstový hormon (Growth Hormone) route, up the wall via 7 bolt hangers… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Růstový hormon
From the beech tree in the left part of the V wall via 6 bolt hangers to the rappel bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Barock 'n' Roll
To the right of the Concerto Grosso route, along the small crack and up the wall via 8… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Bassocontinue
To the right of the Barock'n roll route, up the wall along the edge via 8 bolt hangers to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Menuet
In the left part of the main wall, up a crack for about 10 m and diagonally left into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7/7+
Oratorium
Start like the “Menuet” route and up the crack to the end to the 1st bolt hanger. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Concerto Grosso
Up the wall past the 1st bolt hanger into the cracks of the “Galantní slavnosti” (Gallant… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Galantní slavnosti
Up the center of the wall along cracks through holes to the large ledge to the 1st crack.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
6+/7-
Malá noční hudba
In the left part of the wall, up the narrow wall via 7 bolt hangers to the rappel bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Hrabě Zeppelin
To the left of the “Menuet” route, up the wall via 7 bolt hangers to the rappel bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Baroko v Čechách
In the corner between Barokní stěna (Baroque Wall) and Orient, together with the Strachem… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8-/8
Životem beze strachu
To the left of the Strachem dachem route, up the edge, the wall with the rib, and at the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Strachem dachem
In the corner between Orient and Barokní stěna (Baroque Wall), up the corner and narrow… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Arábie
Right edge via 7 bolt hangers to the rappel bolt hanger. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Salam alejkum
To the right of the "Arabia" route, up the corner and wall via 9 bolt hangers to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Hamam
Left valley edge via 9 bolt hangers to the rappel bolt hanger. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Alibaba
About 3 m to the right of the Hamam route, up the wall and along the edge via 9 bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Rovnováha štěstí
From a crack ('Údolní cesty') diagonally right over 2 cracks into the hole to the 4th… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Kdo chce kam…
Like Body without Soul, traverse via bolt hangers to the ledge. Ascend the wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
Pozitivní vibrace
In the right part of the valley wall, past 6 bolts to the 4th point of "Balance of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Tělo bez duše
Up the center of the valley wall (bolts) to the ledge. Up the wall past 4 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Varianta Těla bez duše (Tělo a duch)
Same as "Body without Soul" to the 2nd point of the Balance of Happiness route. To the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Silové pole
From the 2nd bolt of the "Positive Vibration" route, along the right valley edge past 7… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1