L'Ostroh Východního rohu, sur la rive gauche de la vallée de l'Elbe, offre plus de 170 voies sur 16 tours et parois – parmi les plus grandes, Hřebenová jehla, Ústecká věž, Východní roh, Porcelánová stěna, Rybářská bašta et Citadela. L'escalade est traditionnelle sur murs verticaux de grès, avec anneaux et protections textiles, souvent à l'ombre ; du 2 au 10-/10.
Faisant partie de 7. Vallée de l'Elbe – rive gauche, 08. Ostroh Východního rohu possède 173 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 2 à 10-/10. Explorez ses 16 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.
Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.
Règles
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Moulinette uniquement si elle n'abîme ni le rocher ni l'équipement fixe (dégaine personnelle en relais, pas de frottement de corde sur le rocher).
- Premières ascensions uniquement avec l'accord du gestionnaire (rive gauche : spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- L'équipement fixe non approuvé est interdit.
Les règles de la ČHS pour l'escalade dans les zones de grès de Bohême s'appliquent.
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques (friends, coinceurs, pitons) – seulement des sangles, des nœuds et des « UFO » textiles entre les anneaux.
- Uniquement sur rocher sec – le grès mouillé ramollit et casse.
- Ne pas modifier la surface du rocher.
- Rappel depuis les anneaux de sommet.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Hřebenová jehla Ústecká věž Východní roh Porcelánová stěna Rybářská bašta Citadela Barokní stěna Žába Tajemníkovy kouty Kyklop Česko x Sasko Orient Ratejna Podsvinče Hulicí salonek Železný Zekon
Trier par: Récemment mis à jour Les mieux notées Cotation : des plus faciles Cotation : des plus difficiles Nom (A–Z)
9+
Silkroad
To the left of the Standard Situation, from the edge of the ledge, up the V wall past 3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Standardní situace
Exactly up the center of the V wall, then diagonally to the right past 4 bolts to the NE… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6-
Marťanská varianta
From the holes above the 1st point to the 2nd point. Fall into the wall and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Kosmický komín
From the North, up the chimney (stemming) between the tower and the massif diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
R.H.S
Up the chimney (stemming) variant of the Valley Route to the balcony, higher up the South… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Za hranici vkusu
Up the center of the upland chimney past 4 bolts to the balcony (point). Then up the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Údolní cesta - Varianta
Up the chimney (stemming) between the tower and the massif to the balcony. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8/8+
Div si lámy nepřehnátal
On the West side, from the gully between Hřebenová jehla (Comb Needle) and Porcelánová… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Bekend
Like the route "Forehand", up the crack to a ledge. Up the left corner crack, then up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Údolní cesta
From South into the gully and up the South edge to a point. (By stemming) up the edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
4+
Forhend
On the right in the V wall, up the crack to a ledge. Up the right corner crack under an… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Sekaná
Start like the Forehand route and on the right up a protruding pillar past 6 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7/7+
Jakoto
From the start of the route "East Wall", left up the wall past 3 bolts into a falcon-like… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Modré meče
To the left of the start of the route "Forehand", up the wall and edge past 3 points into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
9+
Zapp zarapp
Like the East Wall, up the crack and directly up the wall past 3 bolts to the rib of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Východní stěna
Start in the V wall, up the crack to a ledge, traverse 5m to the right to an edge, up… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7+/8-
Lachende Bestien
To the right of the Plate Route, from the edge of the ledge, up the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Střep
From the 1st K of the „Talířové cesty“ along the edge (2 K). From the left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Gejša
To the left of Talířové cesty over overhangs (3 BH). From the 2nd BH slightly right and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Talířová cesta
In the right part of the SE wall, a crack over an overhang to the K. Left to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7/7+
Sloni v porcelánu
Start up the wall to the left of the „Talířové cesty“. From the left to the 1st K, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +3
7+/8-
Majolika
To the right of the Perpetuum fragile route, up the wall over 3 BH to the 4th BH of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Perpetuum fragile
Start to the right of the Návrat čochtana route. Diagonally right to the blunt edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
9/9+
Manufaktura
Start up the "Majolika" route and follow it to the 5th BH of the Perpetuum fragile route.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Návrat Čochtana
From the left from the gorge, directly to the 1st K and slightly left to the 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8+/9-
Pâte sur Pâte
Start to the left of the "Navrat čochtana" route. Up the wall and over overhangs (5 BH)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Charizard
From the gully on the NE side, right behind the fore-rock, in the opposition between the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Zelená Inkvizice
To the right of the Charizard route, start right up the chimney, then up the wall over 5… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Jako zamlada
In the left part behind the fallen pillar, up a small wall, a crack and a wall over a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Nedělní pohoda
Up the wall along small cracks over 2 BH to the small crack. To the right of it (2 BH) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2