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Grimper à Bořeň

470 voies
4 domaines
1–11 notes

Le Bořeň (539 m) est une colline de phonolite à environ 2 km au sud de Bílina, au bord nord-ouest des monts de Bohême centrale, au-dessus de la route de Most à Bílina. Vu du nord-ouest, il évoque un lion couché ; on le compare souvent à la Devils Tower du Wyoming et on le présente comme la plus grande structure phonolitique de ce type en Europe. La colline est une réserve naturelle nationale avec forêt d'éboulis, steppes rocheuses, affleurements et champs de blocs, traversée par un sentier pédagogique jusqu'au sommet et à son panorama.

Le Bořeň est l'une des montagnes d'escalade légendaires de Tchéquie – on grimpe sur des piliers et parois de phonolite, surtout en traditionnel. Les voies sont décrites dans un topo de Stanislav Emingr et Ladislav Vörös. S'agissant d'une réserve naturelle nationale, l'escalade suit les conditions de protection de la nature – vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme. Le centre d'information de Bílina renseigne sur les environs.

Faisant partie de Bohême du Nord-Ouest, Bořeň possède 470 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 11. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Règles

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

6
Píšťaly
Up the right side wall of Píšťaly (bolt) over the bulge to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Bílá stěna
The start is from the side of the White Wall. Briefly up a crack and via steps to the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Bílá stěna
Short edge (bolt) to a step. Continue along the edge like the route 'Uvolněná-levá'. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bílá stěna
Left of "Uvolněných" there is a crack in the wall forming the letter "Y". Follow the… Rock Climbing
3
Bílá stěna
The start is entirely to the right at Píšťaly. Diagonally traverse to the terrace below a… Rock Climbing
4
Bílá stěna
From the right side of the White Wall easily to a small platform with a loose boulder.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Bílá stěna
Diagonally left from the center of the White Wall is a vertical (V) pillar. Up its right… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
4+
Bílá stěna
About 2m right of 'Carevna' there is a flat and open corner in the wall. Through the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5+
Bílá stěna
In the right part of the White Wall, up the pillar over 2 pitons and a bolt to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Bílá stěna
To the right of the White Wall, a pillar rises in its lower part, ending on a large… Rock Climbing
4
Bílá stěna
Up a vertical crack, from the right side of the pillar around a detached small pillar,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Vertical wall
3
Bílá stěna
The route is entirely left in the gully. Over a wedged boulder to a slab and along it… Rock Climbing
6+
Bílá stěna
The start of the route is like "Carevna". After a few meters, traverse left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
6-
Bílá stěna
Up the wall to the right to the edge. Along the edge (bolt) to the platform. From there… Rock Climbing
?
Bílá stěna
Briefly above the start, traverse right into the wall, up to below the overhanging crack.… Rock Climbing
5-
Skautská věž (Větrná)
The route roughly follows the gully (W) of the wall. The start is about 10 m from the (S)… Rock Climbing
3
Skautská věž (Větrná)
Through a prominent corner in the right part of the plateau wall below a wedged boulder.… Rock Climbing
2
Skautská věž (Větrná)
The route is entirely to the left (with your back to the Bishop's Chair) and always along… Rock Climbing
4-
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
The right part of the Dance Hall is divided by a massive chimney, which is interrupted… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
6
Taneční sál (Západní amfiteátr)
To the right of the leaning pillar is a smooth and overhanging crack. Up the crack with… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5
Východní stěna
The massive (E) wall forms prominent rock couloirs in its left part. Through them,… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6-
Východní stěna
Up the left pillar of the couloirs to the top. (4 bolts). Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5-
Východní stěna
Where the 'Kramlovaná cesta' begins to be constrained by walls, there is a yellow, broken… Rock Climbing
2
Polední pilíř - pravá část
Along the short upland side of the pillar. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
3
Ostrá věžička a Malá severní stěna
Through a small cave under the overhang, up it (rappelling ring) along grassy steps to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5-
Severní stěna
Left of Ostrá věžička (Sharp Turret) via a crack over a slab (40 m) under an overhang. To… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
8-
Severní stěna
Up the pillar via 3 rings and 3 bolts (7/7+ RP) to the belay. To the right above the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
The start is between "Radova variant" and "Velikonoční". Higher up the wall directly… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
To the right of the "Unknown" indentation via a crack (approx. 25 m) and then a dihedral… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
The route leads along the same pillar as "Velikonoční" (Easter), but from the right side.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow

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