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Grimper à Bořeň

470 voies
4 domaines
1–11 notes

Le Bořeň (539 m) est une colline de phonolite à environ 2 km au sud de Bílina, au bord nord-ouest des monts de Bohême centrale, au-dessus de la route de Most à Bílina. Vu du nord-ouest, il évoque un lion couché ; on le compare souvent à la Devils Tower du Wyoming et on le présente comme la plus grande structure phonolitique de ce type en Europe. La colline est une réserve naturelle nationale avec forêt d'éboulis, steppes rocheuses, affleurements et champs de blocs, traversée par un sentier pédagogique jusqu'au sommet et à son panorama.

Le Bořeň est l'une des montagnes d'escalade légendaires de Tchéquie – on grimpe sur des piliers et parois de phonolite, surtout en traditionnel. Les voies sont décrites dans un topo de Stanislav Emingr et Ladislav Vörös. S'agissant d'une réserve naturelle nationale, l'escalade suit les conditions de protection de la nature – vérifier les restrictions auprès de la fédération tchèque d'alpinisme. Le centre d'information de Bílina renseigne sur les environs.

Faisant partie de Bohême du Nord-Ouest, Bořeň possède 470 itinéraires documentés sur Climbing.place. Les itinéraires vont de 1 à 11. Explorez ses 4 falaises et secteurs ci-dessous.

Styles courants : Rock Climbing, Route on sun, Traditional Climbing, Fixed belay, Route in shadow.

Règles

Bořeň National Nature Reserve – climb only on permitted rocks and respect any seasonal closures. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles des commissions locales s'appliquent. Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé, ne pas modifier les prises.

5
Severní stěna
To the right of the "Unknown" indentation via a crack (approx. 25 m) and then a dihedral… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
7-
Severní stěna
Via the corner crack between "Špalková" and "Velikonoční" up to the height of the pulpit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
To the pulpit as "Špalková" or "Radova variant". From the pulpit, the route continues… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
In the left part of the wall, traverse through a corner and a small chimney around a tree… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
Via a prominent corner roughly in the middle of the (North) face to the pulpit. From… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5
Severní stěna
Where the North Pillar meets the North Face, there are approximately 50m high rock… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6
Severní stěna
Via the right crack of the rock hollows over an overhang into the window in the North… Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay +1
6
Severní stěna
Right below the hollow (rock basins) of previous routes, via a crack to a platform … Rock Climbing Route in shadow
6
Severní stěna
To the right of the "Bílinský Hanger", above the ramp, there is a white overhanging… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
5+
Severní pilíř
Start from the right side of the pillar, via a crack to the balcony (belay station). Then… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +4
6-
Severní pilíř
The first major rise of the North Pillar is cut by two cracks. The start is where the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5-
Severní pilíř
About 10m below the North Chimney entrance, on the left side of the North Pillar, follow… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4+
Severní komín
Up the chimney to the platform (formerly VK). Further over small walls and grassy ledges… Rock Climbing Route in shadow
4
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Up the prominent crack in the center of the pillar about 5 m to a small platform. The… Rock Climbing Route on sun
7+
Kozí (JV) pilíře
Up the valley wall over 5 bolts to the top. Belaying set up from above. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Ďáblova kazatelna
Up the overhanging edge, to the right of 'Stará cesta' onto a narrow ledge and up the… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6+
Ďáblova kazatelna
From the valley floor up crumbly terrain under the overhang and with difficulty over it… Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Ďáblova kazatelna
The (E) wall is formed by a prominent corner (covered by a top overhang - see note). … Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Ďáblova kazatelna
Up the left edge (S) of the wall. Over a more difficult bulge onto a smooth, slightly… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6-
Stěna u Ďáblovy kazatelny
Up the center of the pillar to the left of Mravenčí (bolts) to the top. Rock Climbing Route on sun
5+
Jižní stěna
Start about 4m up easily to a small platform below your own pillar. Center of the pillar… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Jižní stěna
Center of the pillar that borders the left part of Ohnisko, up across 5 bolts. Bolts were… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Over the wall of the Overhanging Pillar. Rock Climbing Route on sun
4
Nádvoří - přepadlý pilíř
Start is in the (S) wall of the Courtyard. Follow the crack to a prominent corner, from… Rock Climbing Route on sun
5
Pravý jižní pilíř
At the entrance to the Nadvoří (Courtyard), there is a wide crack in the wall of the… Rock Climbing Friends Route on sun +1
8-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Start on the bottom right below the Italian Corner. Boulder over the overhanging belly… Rock Climbing Route on sun
3
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Ascend in the highest part of the amphitheater, where the chimney is divided in the lower… Rock Climbing Route on sun
6
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - pravá stěna
Up the middle of the smooth wall of the flat pillar. The rivets were placed from above in… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7-
Pravý jižní amfiteátr - levá stěna
Traverse over a narrow pillar upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5-
Střední jižní pilíř
Up the sloping slabs right of 'Nová' under the striking recess (right in the wall, 1st… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +1

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